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The Cheesery: Dundee firm hopes to ‘weather storm’ of shop closures

The Cheesery owners
The Cheesery owners Stephen and Hilary Barney. Image: Gareth Jennings/DC Thomson

A Dundee business hopes to “weather the storm” of shops closing as the cost of living crisis continues to bite.

Steve and Hilary Barney opened The Cheesery shop on Commercial Street in 2016.

Three years later, they opened a second branch in Broughty Ferry.

But having navigated the difficulties of the Covid-19 pandemic, the couple are faced with another challenge.

A number of businesses across Tayside and Fife have been forced to close amid rising costs and lower footfall in recent months.

But Hilary and Steve hope The Cheesery can make it through.

Hilary said: “With so many small business – particularly in the food industry – closing their doors at the moment, we hope to weather the storm.”

Prior to opening the Dundee shop, the pair had been working in the ready-to-eat street-food sector in London.

However, they wanted to start a family and were keen to go back to Hilary’s home city.

Stephen Barney at work.
Stephen Barney at work.

She explained: “It was a chance conversation with a good friend who managed The Cheesery property in Exchange Street.

“They said the lease was up for renewal and the current owner was keen to sell the business.”

A text exchange followed and after a few meetings, an agreement was reached.

Why stars aligned for Dundee shop owners

Steve and Hilary then set out researching cheese.

This included embarking on a cheese trail of Scotland – visiting a collection of dairies.

Hilary said: “The previous owner was amazing with us.

“She allowed us to work alongside her for a few weeks before we officially took over, and provided us with a wealth of information.

Stephen and Hilary Barney, owners of The Cheesery shops in Dundee and Broughty Ferry.
Stephen and Hilary Barney run The Cheesery shops in Dundee and Broughty Ferry.

“The stars were aligned as this was the perfect venture for us.

“We could work together, doing something we loved with sociable working hours.

“This was important to us as we took over The Cheesery in May 2016 and our first baby, Finn, was born at the end of June.”

Opening a second Cheesery store

The couple then opened a second outlet in Gray Street in Broughty Ferry in March 2019 – three weeks after their second child, Leah, was born.

So what was the attraction of opening in this location?

Hilary explained: “Broughty Ferry is such a bustling little place, with so many independent businesses.

The Cheesery on Dundee's Exchange Street.
The Cheesery on Dundee’s Exchange Street.

“With butchers, a grocer, a wine merchant and bakeries, we thought a cheese shop would be the perfect addition to the town.”

Hilary said that the Exchange Street shop was busy from day one.

“With the reputation from the Dundee shop, the people of Broughty Ferry and surrounding areas were excited at the prospect of getting their cheese closer to home.”

More than 60 cheeses to choose from

Hilary said the most popular cheddar is black bomber – a Welsh, extra-mature cheese with a creamy texture.

With more than 60 cheeses to choose from, the Barneys encourage customers to taste and try new things.

Hilary added: “You can never know everything about cheese.

“The industry is evolving all the time with dairies producing more types of cheese all the time.

“We like when customers have travelled abroad and come back to tell us about a cheese they’ve loved and we try and source it for them.”

There’s more than 60 types of cheese to choose from at The Cheesery.

Asked if they were nervous about taking the plunge with the Dundee venture, Hilary said: “There’s always apprehension and caution with doing something new, but listening to our customers and what they want is key.

“Coming from street food where there is a lot of uncertainty and variables, acquiring a business which is bricks and mortar did give us a sense of stability.”

Hilary felt there were no local rivals relevant to The Cheesery.

She went on: “Obviously, people like their supermarket cheese and that’s fine – but we offer better quality and knowledge; a more specialist service.”

Future plans for The Cheesery?

Hilary said the couple are working on the online element of the business alongside a local web developer.

She also said there may be a return to the street food scene.

“As the children get older, we can look to perhaps getting back into street food with a cheese theme. Who knows?

“Right now we are really happy with the business, the team and customers leaving the shop happy.”

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