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National park and Perthshire farmers team up for deer ‘larders’

Their innovative new project will benefit food banks and schools through regular donations of venison.

Venison donated to chef Mark Balfour at social enterprise Giraffe in Perth.
Venison donated to chef Mark Balfour at social enterprise Giraffe in Perth. Image: Cairngorms National Park Authority

A new project led by Cairngorms National Park Authority (CNPA) and Perthshire farmers aims to reduce damage to farms and fragile habitats caused by deer.

It will also benefit food banks and schools through regular donations of venison.

And it is expected to create local, low food miles market for venison, along with training opportunities and rural jobs.

Red deer
Deer can cause damage to farms and fragile habitats. John Walton/PA Wire

National Lottery funding

The project is part of the Cairngorms 2030 programme and supported by the National Lottery Heritage Fund.

Those involved hope it will inspire land managers and groups in other parts of rural Scotland and beyond to solve critical land management challenges.

Project partners Lauren and Andrew Houstoun, of Glenkilrie Larder, and Mike Cottam of Cairngorms National Park Authority.
Project partners, l-r Lauren and Andrew Houstoun, of Glenkilrie Larder, and Mike Cottam of Cairngorms National Park Authority. Image: Cairngorms National Park Authority

CNPA convener Sandy Bremner said: “This is an exciting project that will help farmers tackle a long-running problem, support the wider community and preserve fragile habitats.

“There’s great potential for it to be rolled out further.

“We are already looking at other areas that would benefit.”

Solving rural challenges

The project is led by CNPA’s Mike Cottam, who said: “This a truly collaborative approach to solving rural challenges.

“It has deeply considered the needs and skills of those involved and is off to a flying start.”

Which farms are involved?

The two farms taking part are Glenkilrie, near Blairgowrie, and Knockbarry, near Pitlochry.

They were awarded a grant to purchase and manage “larders”, from which deer culled in and around the national park are butchered.

Much of the venison processed, including lean and easy-to-cook mince, meatballs, burgers, and sausages, will be donated to food banks, schools and community kitchens.

Venison awaiting preparation at Knockbarry Farm.
Venison awaiting preparation at Knockbarry Farm. Image: Cairngorms National Park Authority

To ensure the project is financially self-sustaining, some of the venison will be sold to local retail outlets, hotels, and restaurants.

This will be through existing routes to market forged by the farms involved.

Helen Stewart’s family has been farming at Knockbarry for more than 400 years.

Mrs Stewart has set up a social enterprise, Fair Feast, to facilitate “substantial and consistent” venison donations.

It has already donated a quarter of a ton in venison products to the local community and is on track to deliver four tons annually.

Helen Stewart, of Knockbarry Farm.
Helen Stewart, of Knockbarry Farm. Image: Cairngorms National Park Authority

Mrs Stewart said: “We experienced agricultural damage from an extremely high deer density. We wanted to find an ethical and sustainable way to reduce deer numbers.

“By developing Fair Feast, we found a way to reduce environmental damage and provide a new permanent supply of lean nutritional protein for those in food insecurity.

“We now have a full-time master butcher working to produce venison sausages, burgers, mince, meatballs and stew.”

Wild venison sausages from Fair Feast at Knockbarry Farm
Wild venison sausages from Fair Feast at Knockbarry Farm. Image: Cairngorms National Park Authority

Glenkilrie Farm has been owned by the Houstoun family for 67 years.

Lauren Houstoun, owner of Glenkilrie Larder, said: “Population of deer herds are rising and agricultural damage increasing.

‘Fantastic animals’

“In turn, these fantastic animals are starting to be viewed as pests.

“We are thrilled to be able to put a positive spin on the situation and show what a valuable commodity the deer really are.

“We are focused on creating a strong network to allow schools across Scotland access to this delicious, high protein, low fat meat.”

“We are passionate in our efforts to make sure children know where their food comes from.” Lauren Houstoun, Glenkilrie Farm

She added: “We’re currently donating the venison for use in home economics classes and, ultimately, hope it can be used on school menus in future.

“We plan to not only donate meat to schools but also invite school groups to learn all about deer and how to cook this fantastic meat.

“We are passionate in our efforts to make sure children know where their food comes from.”

Over the past year, CNPA has begun delivering Cairngorms 2030, a programme of 20 projects aimed at making the Cairngorms the first net-zero national park in the UK.

Conversation