Imagine standing at the edge of Scotland’s rugged wilderness, where the landscape is defined by untamed mountains, glistening lochs, and sweeping moors that stretch as far as the eye can see.
In this remote and enchanting corner of the world, the notion of a pub might seem like a distant dream, but somewhere, hidden within this vast expanse, lies the most remote pub in Scotland.
The question isn’t just whether you would seek it out, but how far you would walk to savour a pint within its storied walls.
Would the promise of a frothy ale, the warmth of a hearth, and the camaraderie of fellow adventurers be enough to drive you through miles of solitude and rugged terrain?
The answer, according to Broughty Ferry-based Glynis Mattheisen, is a resounding yes.
A specialist in AI pharmaceutical work, the 34-year-old from Portland, Oregon, has found her place not only in the cutting-edge labs of Dundee but also in the wilds of the Scottish Highlands.
This connection was exemplified in her latest adventure: a three-day trek to Scotland’s remotest pub.
From Portland to Dundee: A journey in science and spirit
Glynis is at the forefront of developing AI-designed drugs that could revolutionise how we approach diseases like cancer and malaria, making treatments more accessible and affordable.
She speaks fondly of the city and its surrounding areas.
“Dundee is different,” she says, her enthusiasm palpable. “The green space, the fresh air, looking up around the Tay, and you’ve got dolphins and sun. And then the people—in my experience—have been very warm and welcoming.”
Living in Broughty Ferry, Glynis finds the small-town vibe comforting.
“In Broughty Ferry, we walk down the High Street, everyone says hello, and they know your name,” she adds.
“The coffee shop on the High Street knows us so well, they start making our drinks before we’ve ordered. It really makes me feel at home.”
A love affair with Scotland’s wild places
But Glynis’s love for Scotland isn’t limited to its urban areas.
She has long been captivated by the country’s wilderness, a passion that dates back to her teenage years.
“When I was quite young, I came to Scotland for a summer by myself,” she explains.
“I hitchhiked and took a bus from Edinburgh all the way to Sutherland.”
She fell in love with the landscape: “I think back on that trip a lot now and wish I could tell 16-year-old Glynis that this would be her home someday.”
Now, living in Broughty Ferry with her partner Alex, she relishes the proximity to Scotland’s natural beauty.
“We’re out in the hills every weekend, getting to see as much as we can, and we’ll never tire of it.”
The trek to Inverie: A challenge worth taking
Glynis’s latest adventure, a hike to Scotland’s remotest pub, the Old Forge in Inverie, epitomises her adventurous spirit.
Inverie, a village on the Knoydart peninsula, is only accessible by a challenging 30-mile hike or by ferry.
It’s a place of raw beauty, where the community has thrived after buying their land from private owners more than 25 years ago. The pub was bought by the community in 2022.
The idea of making this trek had been on Glynis’s mind for years. However, it just never really worked out—until now. Glynis and her friend Ally Turner, with whom she’s shared many hiking adventures, finally set out on this journey in June.
They’d read on the pub’s Instagram page that the BBC were looking for people to make the hike for TV. They applied and were successful.
Their path began at the Glenfinnan Viaduct, famous for its appearance in the Harry Potter films. From there, they embarked on a three-day trek through some of Scotland’s most challenging terrain.
A journey through bog and storm
Despite being experienced hikers, Glynis and Ally found the trek to Inverie more difficult than expected.
“On paper, the hike didn’t look like it was going to be especially challenging for us,” she says.
“But it was incredibly challenging.”
The “flat” terrain turned out to be an expansive bog, which made progress slow and arduous.
“Every step, you’re sinking into the bog up to your knees, and it suctions you down,” she reflects.
“So, you have to exert all this effort with every step to just rip your leg back out. At one point, I think we were doing half a mile an hour.”
A warm welcome at the Old Forge
After three days of gruelling hiking, Glynis and Ally finally arrived in Inverie.
The Old Forge, the village’s community-owned pub, was waiting to welcome them.
“They knew we were coming,” Glynis says, still touched by the warm reception.
“You open the doors to the pub, and everyone knows who you are before they’ve met you. They’re pulling us free pints and chatting us up.”
The pub is the heart of the Inverie community, a place where locals and visitors alike come together to share stories and enjoy each other’s company.
The pub’s bartender, Will O’Neill, had his own story of falling in love with Inverie.
“He did this hike 13 years ago and just never left!” Glynis laughs.
“That was the sort of story we heard over and over again, talking with all the locals at the pub.”
Looking to the future
For Glynis, this adventure is just one of many. She’s already planning her next big trip, possibly venturing to Greece to hike the Corfu Trail with her partner.
But no matter where her adventures take her, Scotland will always hold a special place in her heart.
“Scotland is so special in that we have almost greater access to beautiful places because of the Right to Roam,” she says.
“The fact that Ally and I can do this hike, and we don’t need a permit, and we see a beautiful spot and think, ‘Oh, pitch the tent there for the night.’ Just the freedom to do that is unique.”
The Journey to Scotland’s Remotest Pub, produced by Elephant Shoe Films, is available on BBC iPlayer as part of the Our Lives strand of documentaries reflecting stories from across the UK. The programme will also be shown on BBC One on Friday, September 6 at 7.35pm.
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