West Wemyss circuit, Fife
A STROLL along the Fife Coastal Path often throws up unexpected delights.
I never imagined I would find myself studying Pictish wall art when I set off from the conservation village of West Wemyss.
It was a perfect morning for walking; the sea was glittering under brilliant sunshine, a light but chilly breeze from the east, a day of sunglasses and thermals.
The starting point was the peaceful little harbour, overlooked by a row of 18th and 19th Century houses.
I followed the sea wall, passing the beautiful St Adrian’s Church and then the towering ivy-covered walls of Wemyss Castle grounds before dropping to the beach as signed to avoid a badly eroded section of path.
A gap in a wall returned me inland and with woodland to my left and the sea to the right.
I eventually emerged on the front at East Wemyss where there are memorials to the musician Jimmy Shand and to three victims of a boating tragedy.
On to Wemyss Caves
The path continued along to the Wemyss Caves where the walls are adorned with Pictish artwork and carvings by Christian monks who visited the area.
It’s wise not to venture too far inside unaccompanied – there are danger notices posted – but an information board gives details of guided tours.
Steps take you up to the 500-year-old ruins of MacDuff’s Castle, originally built by the Earls of Fife.
A signed detour back to the shore reveals Jonathan’s Cave, where it’s safer to go inside to see the largest group of carvings.
Returning to the castle, the route changes character and heads inland, but just before it reaches the A955 it takes a right across farmland.
After going up a flight of steps, watch for a path which makes a sharp turn left across a field to emerge at the main road.
Cross and head along the pavement, turn right into Alexander Street and Summer Road, and keep going when it reduces to a potholed farm track.
Where it curves right, take a left heading into woodland.
Three paths merge further on: stick to the one with the small burn to your left until reaching a football pitch.
Follow the right-hand edge to another path, and go up steps to join a track (the route of a former rail line) which runs along the back of houses.
Stay with this until reaching a farm access road, go straight across and continue to a wooden signpost to cross the burn and immediately turn left again as indicated by a sign for Coaltown of Wemyss.
The path goes into the trees then swings right, expanding to a track.
A sign for the Red Ash Trail indicates a right turn along a farm track and at a waterlogged section, a path goes left to reach an information board and where you out on to the main road.
I turned left along the pavement then crossed to walk up the drive to Wemyss Castle.
When the road divided at a stand of trees, I went right to drop back into the woods, eventually coming out through a door in a wall above the church. The harbour is a short walk along the street.
ROUTE
1. Head north on Fife Coastal Path past church and Wemyss Castle. After eroded section, go through gap in wall (signed) and walk through woods then past scrapyard to reach East Wemyss.
2. Pass memorials and continue to caves. Path climbs stairs to MacDuff’s Castle where there is short downhill detour (signed) to another cave.
3. Passing castle ruins, turn left then right just before A955 to follow track. After climbing some steps go sharp left (no sign) and follow path across field to A955.
4. Cross to pavement, then turn right up Alexander Street and Summer Road. Continue straight on as road becomes farm track and when it curves right, turn left heading into woods (you can also use parallel path along edge of field).
5. At junction of paths, stay to right of small burn and go straight ahead to emerge at football pitch. Follow along right-hand side to path and go up few steps to continue along behind houses.
6. When you reach farm access road, cross and go straight ahead with trees to left and fields to right. Ignore first stream crossing and at wooden signpost further on go left across water then immediately left at sign for Coaltown of Wemyss.
7. Path enters woodland and swings right. Turn right at next sign (Red Ash Trail). Just before farm at waterlogged track section, turn left on path until information board, walk out to main road and turn left along pavement.
8. Pass school and opposite bowling club head up drive of Wemyss Castle. At split in road go right (marker post) on to grassy path into woods. Turn right again then left through doorway in wall and walk along street back to harbour.
INFORMATION
Distance: 12km/7.5miles
Ascent: 120m/394ft
Time: 3-4 hours
Grading: Gentle circuit suitable for all fitness levels on coastal, field and woodland paths and farm tracks with regular waymarkers. Some walking along pavements and minor roads. Muddy in places, good footwear advised. Route passes through farmland – dogs under close control.
Start/finish: Harbour car park, West Wemyss (Grid ref: NT 325946).
Map: Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Landranger Map 59 (St Andrews); Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer sheet 370.
Tourist Information: VisitScotland, St Andrews iCentre, 70 Market Street, St Andrews, KY16 9NU (Tel 01334 472021).
Public transport: Bus services to West Wemyss (13/13A), East Wemyss and Coaltown of Wemyss (7A).
