Crime author Craig Robertson is Stirling born and bred, and can’t seem to stay away from his hometown.
The bestselling novelist, who has published 11 books, previously worked as a journalist for many years.
“Despite moving away to study and work I’ve always found myself back in the heart of Scotland,” he said.
“My wife, Alexandra Sokoloff, is also an author and the quiet beauty of this area inspires us both.
“Alex is American and is always encouraging US authors to visit, forever extolling the virtues of Stirling like an unpaid member of the tourist board.”
Alongside his own work, including Sunday Times bestselling novel Random, Craig has been involved with Stirling’s international crime writing festival Bloody Scotland since its first year, and is now a director.
“I was co-opted onto the organising committee for the inaugural festival in 2012, simply because I was local and daft enough to offer to help,” he jokes.
“Over the years we’ve brought the likes of Lee Child, Jo Nesbo, David Baldacci and Martina Cole to Stirling, and we’ve even had a packed Albert Halls to watch Stephen King live on screen.
“He was interviewed by me, and it’s probably the most nervous I’ve ever been on stage.
“But my favourite memory is probably playing in the first Scotland v England crime writers’ football match, in which our team – captained by Ian Rankin – scudded the English 13-1.”
Bloody Scotland 2024 takes place this weekend (September 13-15), with a busy programme and big names on the bill, including Peter May, Ann Cleeves and Irvine Welsh.
If you’re going to be in town for the festival, these are Craig’s top five recommendations – the best places to go in Stirling according to an insider, from scenic spots to his preferred pub in the city.
1) The Old Town Cemetery
First, the location of what the author believes to be the loveliest view in Stirling.
“Nestled under Stirling Castle, this sprawling burial site comprises the Holy Rude Kirkyard, the Valley Cemetery, the Snowdon Cemetery and the Drummond Pleasure Ground,” says Craig.
“I always take visitors here and they never fail to be wowed by it. It blows their minds to learn that there are many more unmarked graves in the old Kirkyard than there are graves marked by headstones.
“As well as being historically and spookily intriguing, it’s simply a beautiful place.
“Clambering onto Ladies Rock to survey it all is always a joy. The Rock, where ladies of the court could watch jousting in the valley, and where Bonnie Prince Charlie directed the siege of the castle, is my favourite single spot.”
2) Stirling Old Bridge
“We have a lot of old bridges, but this is THE old bridge,” Craig stresses.
“It dates back to the 1400s or 1500s, and therefore old enough that no one can be quite sure just how old.
“It was the river’s main crossing point for hundreds of years and the imprint of centuries of travellers remains in the bridge’s cobbled stone.
“Today, it remains the key crossing point for pedestrians making their way to and from the town centre (sorry, I still can’t say city…) and is always busy with new generations of university students, locals, and tourists.
“The stone seems to change colour with the light, as does the Forth beneath it and the hills beyond.
“When crossing the bridge, take a moment to simply stand and stare, and wonder about those who went before you.”
3) The Beheading Stone
If you’ve got enough energy to take on a hill, you’ll be rewarded, says Craig.
“I’m a crime writer so it’s only natural for me to pick somewhere like the Beheading Stone on Gowan Hill. It’s a short climb and well worth the trek,” he promises.
“This was the place of execution in the 15th century and those that lost their head here include Murdoch, Duke of Albany and former Regent of Scotland.
“Horrifyingly, or thrillingly depending on your mindset, you can still see the marks left by the executioner’s axe.
“As well as fulfilling a macabre historical role, this spot offers fantastic views across this end of the town, to the Wallace Monument and Dumyat, and to the mountains of the north and west.”
4) The Curly Coo
After all that exploring, you’re going to need a drink.
“My favourite pub in Stirling is The Curly Coo on Barnton Street,” the writer admits.
“It’s a haven from the many student-filled bars either end of the Friars Street corridor and sometimes you just need somewhere to chill and enjoy the restorative qualities of beer, whisky and chat.
“There’s no music, no fruit machine, no television, but there are literally hundreds of whiskies.
“There are usually curious tourists mangling the names of towns and distilleries, and an atmosphere all of its own, created by its legendary and idiosyncratic landlady, Mandy.”
5) An Dárna
And if you’re feeling a bit peckish, Craig has a top tip for that, too.
“Stirling is a university town (city…) and so there’s absolutely no problem in finding plenty of places to eat burgers, pizza, curries or any variety of fast food you fancy,” he says.
“Finding something a bit fancier hasn’t always been so easy but An Dárna has changed that.
“It’s a fine-dining restaurant on Friars Street and a wee slice of foodie heaven for those of us weird enough to think that chive emulsion or tamarind mayonnaise are real things.
“The tasting menu changes every five weeks, and they use that period to come up with bold, imaginative offerings.
“By the nature of it, there can be the occasional miss among the many hits but that’s the fun of trying something different.
“It’s also comes in way below the price you’d pay for fine dining in the proper cities so if you’re in Scotland’s smallest, most historic and best city then I’d fully recommend it.”
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