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Pop-up cafe owner sets sights on London as residency in Fife’s Bowhouse draws to an end

Jess Rose Young.

The former head chef at Ballintaggart, Jess Rose Young, plans to make way for London as her pop-up cafe at Bowhouse draws to a close at the end of this month.

Jess, who is originally from Reading and currently resides in Pittenweem, started her pop-up cafe at Bowhouse, in the East Neuk, in November 2020.

The 29-year-old took over the venue’s cafe space and operates a small takeaway from it, offering a concise menu that changes on a weekly basis with everything made in-house.

Originally set to run for the festive period, the response to Jess’s pop-up cafe was so positive and “overwhelming” that it resulted in her staying put for a further seven months.

Jess Rose Young with a tray of homemade sourdough sandwiches.

Looking beyond the residency, the former head chef intends to develop her skillset in a busy London kitchen – after some well-needed rest and recuperation.

‘I just kept rolling with it’

From the outset, Jess knew that she would utilise the superb produce from the Balcaskie Estate, where Bowhouse is based, as much as possible in her bakes and dishes.

“There’s a huge emphasis on using produce from the traders at Bowhouse,” she said.

“This includes meat from the butchery, vegetables from East Neuk Market Garden, beer from Futtle and flour from Scotland The Bread.

“Regardless of whether it’s my sourdough, pesto, shawarma marinade or foraged custard, it’s all made with a lot of love – sometimes sweat and tears, too.”

Jess Rose Young.

“I’ve offered focaccia sandwiches, ranging from lamb shawarma with sumac yoghurt and green sauce to St Andrews cheddar with wild garlic pesto and a favourite of mine – fennel fritter with beetroot hummus.

“There’s also doughnuts (perhaps the main event), sausage rolls (another top seller), seasonal soups such as Balcaskie beef broth and East Neuk carrot and coriander, as well as miso cookies, tahini blondies and Futtle beer brownies.

Doughnuts have proved one of Jess’ most popular menu items.

“Sourdough loaves and focaccia have been on sale each week. I’m currently making roughly 50 loaves per week – most go to David Lowrie Fish who have been very supportive.

“Regardless of whether it’s my sourdough, pesto, shawarma marinade or foraged custard, it’s all made with a lot of love – sometimes sweat and tears, too.”

Taking on the pop-up space came about after Jess met Rosie Jack, Bowhouse manager, at a zero-waste conference.

Sourdough focaccia sandwiches.

After chatting about the space and its potential, along with the producers there, Jess was eager to get her teeth stuck into a new project.

She said: “The original plan was a Christmas pop-up. I was overwhelmed with the support and success so I just kept rolling with it. But Saturday August 28 is the final hurrah!”

Living in London

Although disclosing she is not one “for grand plans”, Jess is hoping to expand her chef knowledge down south and hopes to make a return to Bowhouse in the future – with doughnuts in hand.

“I intended to be in Scotland for three months on an internship at Ballintaggart, but four-and-a-half years later, I’m still here,” she said.

Jess outside Bowhouse.

“Some rest and recuperation will take me to Christmas time, which will involve spending time with loved ones at home, in Reading, and delayed 30th birthday celebrations for my boyfriend, Will.

“Then, I am keen to get some experience in London in a busy kitchen.

“It’s been a whirlwind and some amazing opportunities have come about, but I am keen to carry on my learning and development as a chef and I think some time in a different environment will be challenging but very worth it.

Bowhouse will always hold a very special place in my heart. I couldn’t ask for a more supportive network there.”

Jess Rose Young.

“Come the new year, the world is my oyster! I have met some great people here, I don’t want to lose ties with the Bowhouse, Futtle and Aeble (Scotland’s first cider shop). We’ve chatted about some great ideas for supper clubs.

“Maybe when the world is more normal we can put those plans into practice. I’m sure I’ll be back with a doughnut stall at the Bowhouse market, too. I’ve met too many lovely, loyal customers.

Raspberry and custard doughnuts.

“Bowhouse will always hold a very special place in my heart. I couldn’t ask for a more supportive network there. I’ve had some customers that have come for their weekly treats every week since November and it fills me with so much joy.

“I am very excited for a new chapter. I’ve still got so much to learn and I can’t wait to see where the next year will take me. I think sourdough and carb-based products will always be on the agenda!”


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