The mince pie is quintessentially Christmas.
In this house they are devoured every which way: plain with a sprinkle of sugar and plump with mature, darkly spiced mincemeat; topped with a star and covered with icing sugar like snow; iced with a cherry on top and a dash of nostalgia for Christmases past; or even hastily assembled with puff pastry (vol au vent style) for a quick wintery snack.
It’s worth keeping an oven warm on Christmas Eve to warm up a few last-minute pies for extra sustenance amid the present wrapping and parsnip peeling.
‘Rich and moreish’
Once upon a Yuletide, Christmas mincemeat did contain meat, but now we know it as a matured, rich and moreish condiment of dried vine fruits, citrus, nuts, apple, sugar, suet and spice.
Cinnamon, all spice and nutmeg are all so evocative of this time of year and make the kitchen smell incredible. Homemade mincemeat, matured at the back of the kitchen cupboard, is of course delicious but you can also use some really superb shop-bought ones.
The addition of a little orange zest, a handful of cherries and toasted nuts, or some extra brandy as the mood takes you, goes a long way.
Make mince pies
My Christmas star of a mince pie is the moreish frangipane version.
To make the buttery sweet pastry, cream 50g sugar and 125g butter. Add one beaten egg, little by little, until smooth, then add 200g plain flour and mix until smooth and comes together as a dough. Shape into a block, wrap in cling film and put it in the fridge to rest for at least 2 hours before rolling out.
Roll out on a well-floured surface and use an 8cm cutter to stamp out 12 rounds, 2-3mm thick. Press each one gently into an individual pie tin (fluted ones for the prettiest edges). Prick the bottoms of the tarts then pop them back in the fridge to chill while you make the frangipane.
For the frangipane: cream 100g butter with 100g caster sugar, then gradually add two beaten eggs. Add 100g ground almonds and 10g of plain flour and mix lightly until smooth. Put a tablespoon of mincemeat into each tart case then pipe or spoon the frangipane on top to cover.
Sprinkle the tops with flaked almonds and bake in a hot oven at 180C fan for 25-30 minutes or until the tops are risen and golden. While still hot, lightly brush with warmed apricot jam and enjoy warm.