Dundee is unknown territory to me on most fronts. If you were to ask me a question relating to politics, geography, or news in the area, the likelihood of my answer being correct is slim. Very slim.
However, I do like to think the food and drink scene is one I am fairly knowledgeable about. Not tremendously, but fairly.
I have heard fantastic feedback from colleagues predominantly speaking on it. Much like the Granite City, where I reside, it seems to be growing and growing.
For those that missed any news on the event, The Menu Food and Drink Awards recently took place (after a two-year hiatus) at The Old Course Hotel in St Andrews.
It celebrated the best culinary businesses from across Tayside and Fife and showcased five delicious courses from five top chefs – and I was lucky enough to have the pleasure of attending. A special shoutout to chef Derek Johnstone for producing undoubtedly one of the best desserts I have indulged in.
I bumped into familiar and unfamiliar faces, danced the night away, and was inspired, to say the least, by so many individuals working in hospitality that I crossed paths with.
You would think that after devouring a five-course evening meal one wouldn’t be feeling so ravenous the morning after. Well, think again.
‘How about The Barrelman?’
Dundee city centre is like a maze to me. Considering it’s been three years since I last visited, I gave myself the benefit of the doubt.
My colleagues and I were after some scran the morning after the awards celebrations. With supporting independents always in the back of our minds, we got to thinking.
“How about The Barrelman?” said Julia Bryce, head of the Food and Drink team. The eyes of Menu editor Brian Stormont lit up. It was decided.
And it just so happened that The Barrelman, located on Commercial Street in Dundee, was shortlisted for Bar of the Year at The Menu Awards. Despite knowing nothing about the business at that point, I had very high hopes.
Initial thoughts
The space reminded me of Aberdeen Littlejohn Street bar, Six Degrees North – laid-back, comfortable and rustic-looking. Whether their (Six Degrees North) Dundee-based bar boasts the same atmosphere is unbeknown to me.
Julia, Brian and I were joined by Brian’s daughter, Cari, and Mariam Okhai, a fellow member of the Food and Drink team.
There were plenty of tables spare. However, there were a few families, couples and individuals scattered around the venue.
Essentially, it wasn’t scarce which I was pleased about. I find fewer things more uncomfortable when dining out than an eatery being empty.
The food
The Barrelman prides itself in serving fresh Scottish produce, among a range of artisan coffees and hand-crafted cocktails. Our visit was foodie focused, primarily – the brunch offering to be exact, which is served daily from 10am to 3pm.
While the options were plentiful, it didn’t take long for us to decide on our dishes.
Some were steering towards a stellar soup and sandwich combo, while others opted for jazzy-sounding, modern plates.
Brian selected a brisket sandwich (£10.50) with the soup of the day, pea and ham (an additional £2.50).
The soup was presented in a mug rather than a bowl, a concept all of us loved with Brian describing his plate as “posh soup and a roll.” It wasn’t overly salted on the taste front and boasted a warming peppery kick.
His deluxe ciabatta sandwich was oozing with beef brisket and caramelised onions which complemented each other perfectly.
But the winning combinations didn’t end there, for another sandwich was ordered – a barbecue chicken melt toastie (£6.50).
Wedged between two thick slices of white bread was an assortment of crispy chicken smothered in a tangy barbecue sauce and a layer of creamy, melted cheese.
Cari loved the sauce and polished her plate off. I did the same with my own.
I was after something wholesome and hearty, and I knew I’d get it at The Barrelman. There was something about the bar’s ambience.
It was a toss-up between the beer-battered fish and chips and Barrelman steak pie. The pie (£13.95) prevailed.
Rather than my steak – which had been doused in a thick, rich gravy which had a glossy and enticing shine to it – being encased in pastry, it was instead perched inside a bowl and topped with it.
I loved this as it meant I could add my sides, including vegetables (with a slight and pleasant crunch) and mash, to the bowl and eat all the components as one.
Beautifully moist, the steak tore apart with ease and was incredibly tender. The crispy puff pastry was golden brown. Both melted in the mouth.
I opted for mash over chips because a pie dish isn’t complete without it, in my opinion.
It was creamy, smooth, and had a strong taste of butter – all the qualities of a stellar mash.
The beef bao buns (£9.95) and fish tacos (£8.50) were the remaining two dishes.
Both portions were relatively small. Thankfully my colleagues, Julia and Mariam, weren’t overly parched at the time like yours truly.
Relaying their feedback to me, Julia enjoyed the two beef bao buns – topped with sesame seeds – but thought the teriyaki flavour was lacking.
Chopped red chillis and spring onions were in the mix, too, thus providing a spicy kick and elevating the dish. She felt the buns, which were sweet to taste, would have been bland without them.
Nevertheless, the buns and beef worked well together. The meat was of sound quality.
Mariam was also full of compliments.
The haddock within her soft shell tacos featured a nice level of spice. This was apparent before Mariam even tucked in as the warming aromas were so strong.
However, the tacos had been topped with chopped chillies, which would have enhanced this further, as well as spring onion and cress.
The filling also included chipotle mayo, pico de gallo – a type of salsa commonly used in Mexican cuisine – pickled slaw, both creamy and tart, and avocado.
Sweet potato fries (£3.50 per portion) and regular fries (£3) were there for the taking, too. And we washed our grub down with water, Diet Pepsi, and orange juice.
The verdict
The dishes were visually appealing, particularly the beef bao buns and fish tacos, and undeniably tasty.
There were no faults with our variety of meats and the complimentary water we received as we got comfortable at our table was highly praised.
The portion sizes were the only thing that let the food score slip. My colleagues that tucked into the bao buns and tacos left satisfied but wished there was more on their plates.
Overall, The Barrelman made for the perfect setting for our catch-up and served top-notch scran in the process. Our servers were friendly from the outset, too – something I feel is lacking in a lot of eateries nowadays.
Information
Address: 100-108 Commercial Street, Dundee, DD1 2AJ
T: 01382 800740
Price: £72.90 for five brunch dishes, fresh juice (orange), and four soft drinks
Scores:
- Food: 4/5
- Service: 5/5
- Surroundings: 4/5
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