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After ‘rollercoaster’ year chef Dean Banks teases new openings for 2023 – with Dundee potentially on the cards

Dean Banks looks back on his rollercoaster of a year, and looks ahead to what's yet to come. Image: Paul Smith
Dean Banks looks back on his rollercoaster of a year, and looks ahead to what's yet to come. Image: Paul Smith

Two new venues, three AA rosettes, 70 new staff and changing the industry’s view of mental health issues. “This year’s been a rollercoaster of fun,” says Arbroath-born chef Dean Banks.

The 2018 MasterChef finalist has been cooking up a storm this year, growing his empire even further.

He reopened the popular Haar in St Andrews ahead of Christmas last year, adding six rooms to the Golf Place venue this year.

This month, Dean opened “the perfect pub” The Forager in Dollar with plans to serve his take on pub food.

And he’s been picking up awards along the way. Five stars for his accommodation, three AA rosettes for both Haar and The Pompadour in Edinburgh, and a Michelin guide mention.

Inside Dean Banks’s Haar Restaurant in St Andrews. Image: Kenny Smith/DC Thomson

He says: “That was a very special moment, to have both restaurants be awarded that the same year.

“It cements that we’re doing something amazing within the group, and we’re focusing on everything we’re doing.”

Energy crisis hitting business hard

As the chef’s number of venues has increased over the year, his number of staff has more than tripled.

But on the flipside, his utility bills have also increased. While in January his monthly gas and electricity bill was £1,500 – November cost him £8,000.

“We’ve put the prices up to make sure we don’t go out of business, but it’s difficult with the cost of living crisis, because it’s getting more expensive for people to come, so we’re getting quieter.

“Our higher spend restaurants have seen footfall go down compared to December last year.

Dean putting the finishing touches on a snack platter of oyster, sea buckthorn and rhubarb. Image: Kim Cessford/DC Thomson

“Also, since this time last year, we have doubled in food cost and energy costs have gone up 400%.

“But we can’t do that to our menu. Our menu that was £75 last year, can’t be £150.”

Furthermore, the train strikes throw further spanners in the works, as people can’t travel to their restaurant bookings.

Dean admits some of businesses – which include Edinburgh restaurant Dulse, Haar at Home, Waagyu Burger, Mond Vodka and Lunun Gin – don’t make profits.

Currently making just enough to keep the business running and staff paid, the chef predicts the tide will turn by next summer.

Changing mental health in hospitality

While traveling and dining out has become pricier, food boxes Haar at Home and Waagyu Burger continue to be popular.

The past six weeks, online sales have gone up by over 50% and Dean suspects its because of train disruptions.

The contents of one of Dean’s Haar at Home meal boxes. Image: Haar at Home

Though despite the setbacks, he is on a trajectory for growth and trying to live by the words “fortune favours the bold”.

He says: “I like taking high, but calculated, risks. In the sense that I can take over a site, get staff employed and see the business running.

“None of my businesses are short term, if I set up it’s for the long term. If we can get something now, I’ll invest my money so that hopefully when we come out of this, we’re a strong company.”

With his current businesses, the chef believes he’s found his niche both with the staff and his offerings.

Executive Dan Ashmore and Dean serving up delicious seafood. Image: Kim Cessford/DC Thomson

Dedicated to delivering the best possible food and service, he’s also made an effort to change the whole industry for the better.

“I’ve seen a big change this year in mental health in the hospitality industry,” Dean says.

“There’s more conversations and hopefully next year we can work on changing the vision people have that hospitality is a bad and stressful place to work.

“We don’t want anyone struggling with mental health issues, and if they do we’re always happy to listen if someone needs help.

“Hopefully we can make this an amazing environment for our great staff.”

Dean Banks looks to next year

On the horizon for 2023, the chef has a Glasgow opening planned. He’ll take Dulse, serving Scottish seafood, to the city in spring.

Dean also teases a return to Tayside, as he’s long wanted a site in Dundee.

“We’ve been looking for a Dundee site for a long time, it’s always in my mind and we are in conversations with someone,” he reveals.

“We’ve got a concept for the folk of Dundee, hopefully by next year we’ll be there.”

The Forager in Dollar has become a real community pub says Dean. Image: The Forager

Following the early success of The Forager, he would also like to take the concept to other places around Scotland.

It has grown to be a real community pub that also attracts visitors from further afield.

But while his plans sound carefully laid out, the chef admits he takes each day as it comes.

He says: “People say you must have a fantastic business plan or forecasts, I don’t have any of them.

“I keep myself on my toes, but it means that I don’t feel like I’ve not succeeded if we missed a target.”

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