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Restaurant review: Creative menu shines a light on Rufflets St Andrews’ luxurious offering

Quality and creativity triumph at Rufflets St Andrews says food editor, Julia Bryce.

Why not try the braised octopus with Char Shui pork cheek, broccoli and kimchi at Rufflets St Andrews. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson
Why not try the braised octopus with Char Shui pork cheek, broccoli and kimchi at Rufflets St Andrews. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

Discovering new venues in the Kingdom of Fife has led me to enjoy a variety of different dining experiences.

I’ve had a cheese toastie from The Cheesy Toast Shack in the heart of St Andrews, enjoyed fine dining at The Newport Restaurant at Newport-on-Tay and have sampled one of the best Rueben sandwiches at The Roasting Project in Burntisland.

Fife really is a region wealthy in excellent spots to eat no matter your budget.

Nonetheless, I’ve not dined at a luxury country house just yet so when a friend suggested a local spot I figured it was about time to tick that off the list.

Rufflets St Andrews

Nestled off the B939, Strathkinness Low Road lies Rufflets St Andrews.

The prestigious hotel is not somewhere I’ve frequented before, but its grand drive and entrance made me quickly realise why it is a preferred wedding venue. Its surrounding really is stunning (all 10-acres of it), especially on a sunny spring day.

The exterior and first view of Rufflets St Andrews as you drive up the drive. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

I was meeting a friend for a business lunch on Thursday a few weeks back. The hotel was quiet, but we found out on arrival this was its first day reopening after the winter season.

Arriving sharp at noon, we were guided through to the bright and airy dining room which boasted floor to ceiling windows with marvelous views of the garden courtyard.

Inside the restaurant of Rufflets St Andrews. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

We got our pick of the restaurant and decided the comfortable booth, which could easily seat six, was preferred. It benefitted from views of the garden, too, and allowed us to admire the rest of the venue.

Natural tones were used throughout with tan, teal, greens and blues all touching the furniture, ornaments and the palm leaf wallpaper design. The paneling along the walls and dried floral centre piece further decorated the room, but it was its openness and bright feel that I loved the most.

The large windows make for a gorgeous, bright space. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

The food

The menu boasts five starter, main and dessert options meaning there’s plenty of choice.

This wasn’t going to be a cheap lunch, with two courses priced at £44 and three at £5 and some dishes boasting supplements, but I was hoping it would be worth every penny.

After a quick browse of the menu after being talked through it by our helpful server we ordered and requested tap water for the table.

Unexpectedly we were treated to an amuse bouche of soup of the day. It was a very large portion of thick vegetable soup given most amuse bouche’s I have tried are usually a mouthful or two. This on the other hand was a bowlful.

The blended mix was creamy and had a dollop of sour cream in the middle. Cooked lentils were placed in a bundle on top and although I was set on two-courses, this very much felt like a course in itself.

Compliments shared, we patiently awaited the arrival of our starters as a few other guests began to trickle in.

I was reassured the chicken and duck liver parfait was a popular choice and it wasn’t until I tried it that I could see why.

It doesn’t have to be Easter to enjoy the chicken and duck liver parfait with rhubarb and a side of brioche. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

A perfectly formed ‘Easter egg’ sat on top of a nest of crisp, thinly fried noodle-like strands which crunched and crumbled as my fork hit them. The parfait, also made with mushroom, was in fact shaped into an egg and covered in a thin white chocolate layer.

Underneath the parfait was a sweet rhubarb chutney, of which there was plenty of, and I took great pleasure in lathering each element all over the brioche.

This dish was an impressive display set to start conversation and demand attention, and that it did.

Pouring the ramen broth on top of the scallop starter. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

My dining companion’s scallops (£4 supplement) were very different. This Asian-inspired option featured three good-sized scallops which had been cooked to perfection. They sat in the most delicious ramen stock, with notes of ginger and savoury soy bursting through.

Pieces of dehydrated seaweed sat on top and the sugar snaps had been shredded throughout the broth, acting almost like the noodles you’d find in a traditional bowl of ramen.

The crockery it was served in was beautiful and resembled an intricately decorated fine China bowl.

Scallops with duck gizzard, sugar snaps, ginger and ramen stock. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

It’s not often you see octopus on the menu, so my dining partner opted for it.

She described the flavours, noting how tender the tentacle meat was. The kimchi was a little too spicy in her opinion, but she raved about the char shui pork cheek and the broccoli.

Large pieces of pork crackling were also present, providing a much needed crunch to the odd mouthful.

Braised octopus with Char Shui pork cheek, broccoli and kimchi. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

The Scottish venison had caught my eye and I’m glad it did. Perfectly cooked, the meat was beautiful with my knife gliding through it. It melted in my mouth and the slightly al dente poached pear slices that topped it went well.

There was a small amount of pickled red cabbage which added a sharpness, cutting through the rich dish. This was hidden under the venison pithivier of which the pastry flaked away.

As for the whisky-based jus, it was phenomenal. There was just enough to see me to the end and there were also tiny drops of jus placed strategically to make the dish look even more appetising.

Tuck into the Scottish venison with pickled red cabbage, pear, neeps and whisky. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

The neeps were served in a few different ways including as a puree and thin slices.

Small pieces of crispy kale brought welcome colour to the plate which resembled the pattern of the inside of a cut tree.

Dessert was definitely off the cards following our large amuse bouche, but both the dark chocolate cremeux and the tonka bean crème brulee appealed to me.

Service throughout had been flawless and it was great to hear about every dish as it was presented.

The verdict

For those looking for a lavish lunch experience Rufflets St Andrews is the perfect location.

Not only was the food excellently cooked and presented, every piece of crockery was carefully thought out and further added to the experience.

While it is expensive, expect a meal of the highest quality with great craftsmanship behind it.

Information

Address: B939, Strathkinness Low Road, St Andrews KY16 9TX

T: 01334 472594

W: www.rufflets.co.uk

Price: £92 for a two-course lunch for two

The scores: 

  • Food: 4.5/5
  • Service: 4/5
  • Surroundings: 4.5/5

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