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Restaurant review: Head to Victoria’s in Pitlochry for a family treat

Victoria's offers the ultimate fine dining but cosy experience. Picture credit: Steve MacDougall/DCT Media
Victoria's offers the ultimate fine dining but cosy experience. Picture credit: Steve MacDougall/DCT Media

Pitlochry’s restaurant scene has a reputation renowned across much of Scotland.

We headed up the A9 to check out family-run Victoria’s after their winter break.

The family-run restaurant, which has been a familiar sight to anyone passing through the Highland Perthshire town, reopened on February 10.

For more than 25 years, the Atholl Road eatery has been an ever-popular choice in the town’s competitive dining market.

Open from 10am for a hearty breakfast, Victoria’s has also built up a reputation for lunches.

However, with stomachs rumbling, it was an evening meal we sought out.

With ample parking just a stroll away beyond the bridge, getting to Victoria’s is a breeze.

Victoria’s

Walking up the steps, with fairy lights strung up on the patio, and into the cosy restaurant, we were met with smiles from staff who walked us to a table for two next to a stone fireplace – it wasn’t lit but the clinking of glasses and bustle of the restaurant was enough to keep us toasty.

The outside of Victoria’s provides a terrace which will no doubt be popular when summer arrives.

Inside, it is like stepping into a scene from old Hollywood as the place has a real old-time bistro-diner feel – from the black and white photographs adorning the walls to the 60s soundtrack pouring out of the speakers.

The walls of the restaurant are covered in black and white photographs of the family.

Outside, the al fresco terrace will no doubt be a popular option when the warmer months pull in.

On their website, bosses state that they’re passionate about delivering great service, offering a variety of simple and authentic dishes and using local produce from Scotland’s rich larder.

During our visit, we found that they ticked each and every one of these boxes.

The food

Perhaps what struck us most was the speed of service.

We immediately had a friendly served hurry over to us with a jug of ice cold water, with a smile never daring to leave her face.

This really helped to make Victoria’s stand out as a welcoming environment, with our eyes pouring over the menu as our stomachs roared.

We both chose a soft drink each as we had a drive to take on after our meal back to Perth, with our starters arriving just mere minutes after we placed our order.

I settled on the breadcrumbed Clava brie atop a smoky tomato and chipotle jam (11.95).

The breadcrumbed Clava brie.

The portion was a good size, with the first cut of the knife allowing for the creamy cheese to pour out onto my plate.

This was different from a wedge of brie that you would buy in a supermarket – the Clava brie provided a bitter but pleasant taste.

The star of the dish had to be the jam, giving the dish a hint of sweetness and spice, with a small dressed salad keeping the plate fresh.

My partner’s crispy fried squid with pickled vegetables and soy dressing (£13.50) also impressed.

The crispy fried squid.

Each battered calamari ring was well-matched by the juicy shaved cucumber and despite being a fairly large portion for a starter, they didn’t last long.

I opted for the marinated chargrilled Mediterranean vegetable fajitas (£18.95) for my main, with the sizzling veggies and dips arriving promptly at the table.

It was between that or a comforting tomato pasta, however, I decided to be ambitious with my order as this was also my first time eating at a Pitlochry restaurant.

Now, I am not one to order fajitas in a restaurant, after all, everyone likes different fillings. However, you can’t go wrong with vegetable fajitas, with Victoria’s ones providing a selection of broccoli, green beans and the traditional pepper – there were even big slices of aubergine.

Marinated chargrilled Mediterranean vegetable fajitas.

Thankfully, there were five mini wraps that I could fill, with the smoked veg packed full of flavour. The sour cream provided a welcome cool down from the fiery vegetables, with salsa and guacamole also welcome additions to any fajita.

It was not long before I was stuffed, struggling to even fit another slice of onion in my mouth.

For the main, my partner predictably opted for the duck confit (£26.95).

Though tempted by the braised shin of beef pappardelle, as soon as he spotted the duck on the menu, his mind was made up. It’s like a moth to a flame with him.

The roast breast of duck confit was served with duck pastilles, fondant potato, celeriac puree, spring onion and a red wine jus.

Roast breast of duck confit.

Victoria’s kitchen team deserve top plaudits for plating up the presentation. The delicately arranged plate was one you felt reluctant to disturb with cutlery – had it not been for the aroma, which commanded the artistry be put to one side and every morsel eaten.

While they appeared as perhaps more of a side feature in the menu’s description, the pastilles stole the show.

The crispy, flaky pastry melted in the mouth and the succulent duck inside showed another facet of the main attraction.

Paired with the spring onion, the pastilles offered a reminder of diverse possibilities when cooking with duck.

Though that didn’t push the showpiece confit out of the limelight – tender, fresh and bursting with flavour. The jus and puree, as classics, were the perfect accompaniments – French cuisine as it should be.

There simply was no room for dessert, much to our dismay.

On their menu, Victoria’s list off their suppliers: Les Turriff, Ochil Foods and Yorkes of Dundee – all familiar names that carry weight.

The focus they put on catering to customers is clear from the extensive gluten-free and lactose-free menus online – well above and beyond an obligatory handful of options.

The verdict

Spending time in the historic town of Pitlochry is a treat. Swinging by Victoria’s is also a treat.

It’s cosy, it’s cheery and you’ll walk out with a full stomach and an ear-to-ear grin.

The inside of Victoria’s restaurant.

Information

Address: Victoria’s, 45 Atholl Road, Pitlochry PH16 5BX

T: 01796 472670

W: www.victorias-pitlochry.co.uk

Price: £77.25 for two starters, two mains and two soft drinks

Scores:

Food: 4/5
Service: 5/5
Surroundings: 4/5

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