Dundee-born Adam Handling harnessed the power of The Beano to beat Tannadice’s Mark McCabe in the Great British Menu’s battle for Scotland.
The Michelin star chefs’ desire to win the regional final was palpable as they prepared their four courses, canapes and pre-dessert for the judges.
This year’s Great British Manu theme celebrates British animation and illustration, inspired by Paddington Bear’s 65th anniversary.
Newcomer to the competition Mark McCabe acknowledged that he had his work cut out for him going up against Adam Handling on his third attempt.
Alongside Ed Gamble and Nisha Katona, guest judge and illustrator Frank Quietly and head judge Tom Kerridge – a three Michelin starred chef – decided the chefs’ fates.
Beano-inspired starter impressed judges
The first dishes presented to the judges were canapes. Adam made pea and caviar tarts decorated with alyssum flowers, and Mark opted for arctic char belly and tomatoes in crustard cases.
The unanimous votes from the judging panel showed Mark was the clear favourite in this round.
Mark’s starter Behind Bars – inspired by Dennis the Menace – featured a mushroom porridge with koji (fermented rice) and truffles. From the first round, he upped the seasoning after getting advice from guest judge Tom Aikens who scored him an eight.
The judges loved his attention to detail and enjoyed the balance of the flavours. He picked up two nines and two eights, giving him a total of 34 for his starter.
The Mice That Saved The Lion included red pepper custard, basil sorbet, tomberry tomatoes and a tomato skin tuile made by Adam. Previously scored eight by Tom, the chef set his custard firmer and added more seasoning.
Adam’s flavours were praised by the judges and they enjoyed the presentation. He scored two sevens and two eights, for a total of 30.
Fish courses with a Scottish feel
Moving on to the fish course, where both chefs were heavily inspired by Scotland. Adam’s A Princess Should Not Have Weapons was served by servers wearing Merida wigs and kilts.
The dish consisted of barbequed salmon belly, cured salmon tail, fermented garlic stems, smoked celeriac puree and garnished with blueberries, lingonberries and pickled elderberries.
It received great critiques from the judges, who wanted even more fish. Adam scored his first 10 of the day from Ed, and the other judges awarded him two nines and an eight for a total of 36.
Named after the animated short film it was inspired by, Mark’s Spindrift transported the judges to a Scottish beach. It featured barbequed Arctic char, caramelised white turnips, rock samphire gel, sea vegetables and caviar.
Head judge Tom praised the dish, and the panel agreed Spindrift made them feel like they were walking across a windy beach. Mark got a 10 from Nisha, a nine and an eight, giving him a total of 35.
Top marks for mains
For their main courses, the chefs both took inspiration from The Wind in the Willows. Mark’s Badger’s Sett featured a rack of hogget, smoked yoghurt, buttered sauerkraut, pickled elderberry sauce and a brioche stuffed with lamb and pale ale stew.
He even made a candle out of lamb fat for the judges to dip their brioche roll in. With the lights dimmed, the quartet tucked in and were impressed. They complimented the perfectly cooked meat and wow factor of the dish.
Frank gave Mark a 10, whereas the rest of the panel awarded him an eight, giving him a total of 34.
Adam’s Ratty’s Picnic contained no less than 19 elements. From Balmoral chicken with truffles and braised cheek tarts, to broccoli stalk salad and beer battered gherkins there was plenty for the judges to enjoy.
On the side there was also tongue and cheek sauce, spicy aubergine chutney, gherkin ketchup and ginger beer made with granny’s recipe. Tom thought the sizes of the different elements could be better, whereas Frank praised the roasted beef fat broccoli and blue cheese.
The illustrator awarded Adam a 10, and he picked up a nine and two eights for a total of 35 for his main course.
Beano dessert led to triumph
Next up was the chef’s palate cleansers or pre-desserts. Adam’s Lump of Cold Nothing was a lemon pannacotta with lemon sorbet, jasmine pickled apple and wine foam. Take My Hand, Mark’s lemon verbena mousse in a rye biscuit with damson jam and candied hazelnuts, was tweaked slightly from last night’s episode.
The judges all agreed that Lump of Cold Nothing – which “punches you with acidity” – was the superior dish.
Mark’s dessert was inspired by Kirriemuir author J M Barrie’s tale Peter Pan and the fairy Tinker Bell. One Emotion at a Time included almond cake, strawberry sorbet, woodruff custard and caramelised yoghurt.
While the judges liked the presentation, the dense cake sponge let Mark down. He was scored a five, a six and two sevens for a total of 25 on his dessert.
The Beano inspired dessert Food Fight was a triumph for Adam. His dish featured brown butter cake, strawberry jelly and gel, long pepper set custard, strawberry tuiles, coffee syrup and meadowsweet cream.
Head judge Tom was blown away by this “magical little piece of cookery” and the panel appreciated the joyfully chaotic presentation of the dish. It won Adam two nines and two 10s, making it a total of 38.
With 10 points more than Mark, it was third time lucky for the Dundee-born chef.
Great British Menu Scotland winner
“I need to represent Scotland and make it proud,” said Adam after being named the winner.
Both chefs received praise from the panel and were told they have done Scotland proud. Head chef Tom said the dishes were reflective of Scottish produce and both fish dishes were great bits of cookery.
It was Mark’s first appearance on the show, but he still blew the judges away and even took home a few 10s. Chances are we’ll see him back again another year.
The Tannadice chef said: “I completely wish Adam the best of luck in the finals.
“I hope he does incredibly well.”
Adam will go on to represent Scotland in the Great British Menu finals.
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