Is the food as good as the drinks at Dundee's iconic Phoenix bar?

It’s no secret that Dundee’s culinary offering can be a little hit or miss.

But I have enjoyed eating my way through the city (mostly thanks to this job) since I moved here two years ago.

I’ve made a point of visiting some of the best popular spots, from Más on Perth Road to Tahini in the city centre and Sol y Sombra in Broughty Ferry.

And I recently ticked yet another well-loved institution off my list.

It is a place which has been name dropped on TV shows such as Still Game and supposedly visited by none other than Frank Sinatra in 1953.

It is, of course, The Phoenix on the Nethergate.

The Phoenix on the Nethergate. Image: DC Thomson

The Phoenix in Dundee has a popular reputation

The famous pub, which has been run by the same family for four decades, has been serving drinks for more than 150 years.

So when it was put up for sale last summer, many regulars reacted with dismay, urging the new owners to “protect” the pub.

One year later, The Phoenix is still on the market for £825,000.

Wanting to try it out before that changes – several colleagues have raved to me about its homecooked food – I decided it was time I pay a visit.

The Phoenix is popular with locals. Image: Kim Cessford / DC Thomson

The pub – painted pillar box red and hard to miss – was buzzing when I arrived on a Sunday evening.

Thankfully, my friend and Courier reporter Kieran Webster had already nabbed us a table.

Sitting down, noticing the stained glass windows, rickety wooden booths and stag’s head on the wall, I felt like I had entered a time capsule.

I imagined that a tourist searching for a ‘traditional Scottish pub’ would probably be quite happy if they stumbled into The Phoenix.

So how is the food at The Phoenix, Dundee?

“This menu is my dream, I could have anything,” Kieran said as we read said menu, which featured many of the pub grub classics, including chicken Kiev and scampi.

There were also some less traditional options, such as pizzas, baked potatoes and filled baguettes.

After much deliberation, I placed our order at the bar.

Our starters, delivered by the chef himself, were quick to arrive.

The garlic mushrooms were a little underwhelming. Image: Kim Cessford / DC Thomson

I was pleased at the sight of my garlic mushrooms – it was a HUGE portion – which came served in a bowl alongside a crispy salad, creamy coleslaw and sliced baguette.

The taste was a little less exciting.

Although the mushrooms had a strong garlic flavour, they lacked seasoning and were only lukewarm.

But the salad – iceberg lettuce with fresh tomatoes and cucumbers – was a delicious addition, as was the thick and creamy slaw which I happily spread on the sliced baguette.

Mozzarella dippers at the Dundee pub. Image: Kim Cessford / DC Thomson

Kieran, who had ordered the mozzarella dippers, was more than satisfied with his dish.

He even demonstrated for me, with much excitement, an Instagram-worthy cheese pull, tearing the mozzarella stick apart as if in slow motion.

The dippers were warm and crispy he said, and paired well with the sweet chilli sauce on the side.

‘Warning – our chilli is HOT’

As a vegetarian, my main course options were: vegetarian chilli with rice, vegetarian chilli with chips, vegetarian chilli on a baked potato, vegetarian chilli on a pizza or vegetarian chilli in a burger bun.

There was also a cheese salad, vegetarian pizza, vegetarian burger or vegetarian hot dog – but none of these appealed to me.

Thankfully I am a fan of vegetarian chilli.

The menu also warned: ‘Our chilli is HOT’.

This added an extra layer of anticipation as we awaited our mains.

The vegetarian chilli came with rice.. Image: Kim Cessford / DC Thomson

I had mixed feelings about the presentation of my vegetarian chilli, which was topped with plasticky pre grated cheese.

But any negative preconceptions I had melted away when I took my first bite.

The mixture of Quorn mince, juicy jalapenos and kidney beans in a spicy tomato sauce – not too “HOT” thankfully – was rich and satisfying, while the steaming white rice was fluffy and fragrant.

Paired with the surprisingly tangy cheese and crunchy raw bell pepper slices, every mouthful was a beautiful combination of flavours and textures.

It was comfort food at its finest. I only wished it had come with sour cream or guacamole to counteract the heat.

Kieran went for the royal burger – a beef patty sandwiched with salad, bacon and melted cheese in a toasted white bun.

The royal burger. Image: Kim Cessford / DC Thomson

He was delighted, saying the combination of flavours was delicious and well-balanced.

He added that it was well-loaded and very comforting.

His only gripe? The patty was a “tiny bit dry”. But this didn’t stop him clearing his plate.

A pint of chips?

I’m embarrassed to say that we also ordered four sides to share. We were hungry, and they all sounded good.

We went for the iconic pint of chips (exactly what it sounds like), garlic bread and onion rings. For balance, we also threw in a side salad.

The chips – the nice chunky type – were great: freshly cooked, well-seasoned, fluffy on the inside, and crispy on the outside.

The novelty factor of the pint glass at The Phoenix, Dundee, definitely added to their appeal.

I couldn’t help but wonder what else I could eat out of a pint glass.

Porridge would be terrible, I decided. But popcorn? There is potential there.

We enjoyed four side with our mains. Image: Kim Cessford / DC Thomson

The garlic bread – a huge baguette slathered in super garlicky butter – was salty, crispy, warm and delicious.

The side salad, a refreshing mixture of iceberg lettuce, cucumbers and tomatoes with a tangy dressing poured on top, was also tasty.

Only the onion rings, which were a bit soggy, disappointed. But they did have a nice flavour.

Sticky Toffee Pudding doubles up as a delicious breakfast

Unfortunately, despite eyeing up the sticky toffee pudding on the specials board all evening, I didn’t have any room left for dessert

Instead, at the risk of being an awkward customer, I asked for a portion to take away.

This request which was met at first with confusion (fair enough) and then a nod.

“Honestly, that place was perfect,” Kieran said as we walked up Perth Road in search of a post-dinner coffee.

Cradling my sticky toffee pudding in a tin foil parcel, I agreed with him.

The sticky toffee pudding is served with ice cream at The Phoenix, Dundee. Image: Kim Cessford/DC Thomson

Several weeks later, I retrieved the pudding from my freezer, blasted it for 30 seconds in the microwave and enjoyed it with a dollop of Greek yoghurt for my breakfast.

It was wonderful. The sponge was baked perfectly, with a springy yet moist texture, rich molasses flavour and delicious sweet sauce.

It also went very well with the tart yoghurt, which added a creamy mouthfeel.

But if that sounds like a strange combination to you, don’t worry. Customers at The Phoenix can expect to enjoy it with vanilla ice cream (see the above picture).