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Is The Physician in St Andrews ‘the best cocktail bar in town’?

The Physician on South Street serves a range of cocktails, small plates, big plates and desserts. What did I think of it?

Joanna Bremner, food and drink journalist, visited The Physician in St Andrews for a review. Image: Mhairi Edwards/DC Thomson
Joanna Bremner, food and drink journalist, visited The Physician in St Andrews for a review. Image: Mhairi Edwards/DC Thomson

I have been waiting since February to find the time to visit The Physician in St Andrews.

The colourful cocktail bar and restaurant opened earlier this year, serving up a range of medical-themed cocktails and plenty of tempting food.

The venue is inspired by Scottish physician Dr John Adamson, who was born in St Andrews.

Back in February, managing director Julie Wijkström told me that The Physician would be “the best cocktail bar in town”.

I planned to test out that theory.

First impressions of The Physician, St Andrews

We are met with some confusion when we enter The Physician. We are told at first that they are closed (despite my partner, Michael and I, having booked a table).

This is soon sorted out, and we are invited to take a seat wherever we like.

The food menu has everything from nibbles: olives, small plates such as beef tartare, and large plates such as fillet steak, chateaubriand and lobster risotto.

The interior of The Physician is bright and colourful, combining navy and red with gold accents. Image: Mhairi Edwards/DC Thomson

The Physician is a finalist for the best bar or pub category in the Scottish Thistle Awards this year, alongside The Barrelman in Dundee and The Boar’s Head in Auchtermuchty.

It has clearly made a name for itself since opening in February.

On our visit though, it’s a little quiet. But that may be because we are there quite early on a Sunday evening.

The place fills up as our meal goes on.

Did our cocktail and mocktail measure up?

I was immediately eyeing up the ‘We’re gonna need a bigger boat’ cocktail, as my mum and grandad are absolutely obsessed with the movie Jaws.

But I just can’t resist the namesake cocktail The Physician (£12).

My cocktail is a fruity combination of Absolut vodka, St Germain liqueur, cranberry and lemon juice. It’s topped with a raspberry and some mint.

This is exquisite.

The Healer mocktail and The Physician cocktail at the St Andrews cocktail bar. Image: Mhairi Edwards/DC Thomson

The colour of the cocktail makes one imagine a juicy, mouth-watering berry, and that’s exactly what it tastes like.

It’s not so fruity as to be gulped down in a few sips though, as you can taste the alcohol there. But it’s balanced well, and offers the perfect tart refreshment.

Michael, the designated driver for the night, goes for alcohol-free drink Healer (£7).

Often mocktails taste like one-dimensional fruit juice, and for £7 I was expecting more than that.

Thankfully, this was far better than your typical mocktail.

This is reminiscent of a Mojito, and the addition of basil cordial and pineapple juice adds variety in the flavour.

The Physician, while it serves many alcoholic drinks, does not forget those who can’t or don’t drink. This mocktail is just as interesting to drink as a cocktail, simply without the alcohol.

‘I could have licked the plate with this one’

A waitress takes our order after we’ve had a few sips of our drinks, and we decide on our small and large plates.

Although we treated the small plates as starters and the large as mains on our visits, the small plates would be ideal to have as a tasty snack alongside some cocktails.

Michael, ever fond of spice, opts for the Korean fried chicken (£12).

Korean fried chicken, a small plate from The Physician, St Andrews. Image: Mhairi Edwards/DC Thomson

This is tangy, sweet and spicy. It’s a generous portion too, meaning I am permitted to steal a bite or two.

The lime on the side, which Michael squeezes over the dish, sings with the heat from the spicy mayonnaise that coats the chicken.

We are both delighted by the crispiness of the batter. So often restaurants include fried chicken on the menu and yet serve it in a disappointing, soggy batter.

However, the fried chicken bites are perfectly crunchy, not made soft by the drizzle of mayo.

I choose the king prawn pil pil (£12) as my starter. This is equally as show-stopping.

The small plate, king prawn pil pil. Image: Mhairi Edwards/DC Thomson

The king prawns are big and juicy, cooked to perfection.

There is plenty of the delicious oil, packed with garlic, chilli, parsley and coriander. And the toasted slices of sourdough bread make the perfect vessel for dipping.

I could have licked the plate with this one.

I’d recommend both of these starters if you’re keen on a bit of spice. The heat isn’t overwhelming in either dish.

How are the ‘big plates’ at The Physician, St Andrews?

For our mains, or ‘big plates’ as the menu categorises them, Michael and I struggle to decide.

The steak is tempting, albeit pricy.

I am also tempted by the linguini, which comes with kale pesto, hazelnuts and parmesan.

But in the end, I decide I am too hungry for just one carb, and choose the South Street burger (£19).

The South Street burger, with Michael’s truffle and parmesan fries. Image: Mhairi Edwards/DC Thomson

The melted cheese on this is tasty, and the lettuce tastes crisp and fresh.

Unfortunately, the patty itself is a little overcooked, adding a bitterness to the burger as a whole.

Michael goes for his favourite lately, mussels (£19).

These are served in a white wine, cream and garlic sauce.

The mussels from The Physician. Image: Mhairi Edwards/DC Thomson

It’s easy to overcook mussels, shrinking them and making them chewy.

But these are neither, and are irresistible.

The sauce is delicious too: salty and creamy and moreish.

As there is never much eating in mussels once you dissect them from their pretty shells, he gets a side of truffle and parmesan fries (£6).

These are excellent, crispy on the outside and fluffy on the outside. The sharpness of the parmesan topping goes so well with the intense earthy and woody truffle flavour.

Verdict

The Physician’s sister restaurant, The Adamson, was the talk of the town when I was a student in St Andrews.

We couldn’t wait until we had saved up enough to splurge on one of their impressive cocktail trees to toast our final semester.

The Physician absolutely lives up to that hype. The food, aside from my burger, was perfect. The drinks were fun, inventive and delicious.

The dishes and drinks we tried at The Physician, St Andrews. Image: Mhairi Edwards/DC Thomson

The venue itself is faultless. The decor makes you feel as though you are sat somewhere both snug and exclusive.

I would highly recommend visiting The Physician.

Information

Address: 129 South Street, St Andrews, Fife, KY16 9UH

T: 01334 479191

W: https://www.thephysician.bar/

Disabled access: Yes

Dog-friendly: Yes

Price: £97.84 for one cocktail, one mocktail, two small plates/starters, two big plates/mains and a side of truffle and parmesan fries.

Scores:

Food: 4.5/5
Service: 3/5
Surroundings: 5/5

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