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ScotRail romance sparks shift from Fife lawyer to Angus venison chef

Angus deer farmer Anona Gow went from a lawyer to cooking venison, and now she is a published author.

Anona Gow cooking a venison dish on her Aga.
Anona Gow in her kitchen where she creates her recipes. Image: Kim Cessford / DC Thomson

When Anona Gow began her career as a lawyer, she never imagined that one day she’d trade the courtroom for the countryside, running a deer farm in Angus and writing a venison cookbook.

Yet, life took an unexpected turn – one set in motion by a fateful train journey.

It was during her commutes to and from Edinburgh that Anona met her future husband, Jeremy Gow, who was returning home to his family farm just north of Forfar.

“Our eyes met across a crowded carriage,” the 46-year-old says. “We met in September 2006, and we were married the following November.

“So, I guess we have ScotRail to thank!”

Anona’s life took another dramatic shift during the the Covid-19 lockdown in 2021, when she decided to leave her legal career to work alongside Jeremy on their deer farm.

Deer on the hill at Pitscandly Farm, with a loch behind them.
Some of the deer herd on the hill above Pitscandly Farm. Image: Kim Cessford / DC Thomson

“Once I left my job in Edinburgh and began spending more time on the farm, I thought, ‘I’d better learn to cook!'” she says.

“We sell our Pitscandly Farm venison at farmer’s markets, and customers often ask how to prepare it. Many people are hesitant about cooking venison, but it’s actually quite simple.”

A self-taught farmhouse cook, Anona emphasises that anyone can learn to cook venison. “If I can do it, anyone can!” she insists.

What’s the best way to cook venison?

“You can easily incorporate venison into everyday meals, and it can also make for something really special.”

One of the myths Anona is keen to dispel is that venison is expensive.

“Yes, you can get a pricey fillet, but venison mince is comparable to beef or lamb. It’s not just for special occasions.”

Venison curry.
A venison curry from The Venison Kitchen by Anona Gow Image: Hamilton Kerr Photography.

The growing interest in Anona’s venison recipes, shared on their deer farm’s website, inspired her to take on an exciting new challenge – writing a venison cookbook.

“I didn’t want to be one of those people who says they’re going to write a book and then never does it.

“So, I just got my head down and did it!” she says.

Having collected recipes over several years, Anona focused on completing the book over the past year.

Working with Kirriemuir photographers Hamilton Kerr, the result is The Venison Kitchen, a beautifully illustrated cookbook showcasing venison’s versatility.

The cover of The Venison Kitchen cookbook show author Anona Gow in her farmhouse kitchen.
Anona Gow’s cookbook, The Venison Kitchen, has just been released.

The book includes recipes for everyday dishes such as casseroles, as well as more adventurous options like Thai venison with fried egg.

She also gives directions for a range of sauces and explains how to handle the various cuts of meat.

“It’s actually a lot easier to cook venison than people think,” Anona explains.

A cooked haunch of venison.
A haunch of venison from The Venison Kitchen by Anona Gow.<br />Image: Hamilton Kerr Photography.

“Fillets and steaks only need a few minutes on each side, then time to rest.

“I made a venison fillet for Christmas dinner, and it was ready in what felt like seconds – it was a real showstopper!”

With almost 100 recipes, The Venison Kitchen is great value for £25 and has a mouth-watering image for each recipe.

Anona Gow holding her new book on the hill above Pitscandly Farm, Forfar. There are beautiful views behind her of farmland and a loch.
Anona Gow with her new book on the hill above Pitscandly Farm. Image: Kim Cessford / DC Thomson

Venison isn’t just delicious – it’s incredibly healthy too.

The health benefits of venison

“It has half the fat of skinless chicken, twice the iron of lamb or beef, and is packed with essential fatty acids, vitamins, potassium, and zinc,” she says.

Another misconception Anona aims to debunk is that venison is a seasonal meat.

“Venison isn’t just for autumn and winter.

Venison mince in lettuce leaves - a recipe from the Venison Kitchen cookbook.
Mince Cups from The Venison Kitchen by Anona Gow. Image Hamilton Kerr Photography.

“It’s available year-round, and my book includes lovely light summer recipes, like spicy summer mince cups. Venison also pairs beautifully with summer berries.”

An additional bonus is that deer farming is environmentally friendly.

“We have around 300 deer, and they’re free to roam across 300 acres of land. We don’t house them or calve them, and they’re very relaxed,” she says.

A herd of deer on the hill at Pitscandly Farm.
Some of the deer herd on the hill above Pitscandly Farm. Image: Kim Cessford / DC Thomson

“So, it’s really low intensity farming.”

Anona is keen to stress the difference between farmed and wild venison – and it’s not what you might expect.

“Wild venison is what you imagine, wild beasties running around looking for shelter and eating whatever they can find – usually plan hillside fodder,” she says.

“Farmed venison, however, enjoys access to good grass and additional feed over winter.

Some deer looking at the camera on Pitscandly Farm.
The deer herd on the hill above Pitscandly Farm. Image: Kim Cessford / DC Thomson

“They are culled at around two years old, so they have a more gentle, consistent flavour and full traceability.

“Good animal husbandry is so important too as how you treat the beasties really affects the quality of the meat.”

Guests staying in the couple’s self-catering accommodation enjoy taking photos with the friendly deer.

And Anona even offers homemade venison meals delivered to their door during their stay.

Anona offers venison cookery workshops

She also hosts venison cookery workshops for groups of 5 or 6 people, who then get to sample the food in their lovely garden room.

“When guests want to see the deer, we take them up the hill in the farm truck and tempt them towards us with windfall apples, which they adore!” she says.

“They’re very lucky deer, we also take them windfall pears.

“And at the moment, the rutting season is on – the roars are amazing.”

Anona Gow picking fruit for the deer in the Walled Garden at her farm.
Anona Gow in the walled garden, Pitscandly Farm. Image: Kim Cessford / DC Thomson

Anona’s message is clear: don’t be intimidated by venison.

“I just want people to give it a try.

“You can find it in supermarkets, but the best place to buy it is at farmer’s markets – or from our website.

“If you’re buying from the supermarket, make sure it’s Scottish or at least British.”

With her cookbook and mission to bring venison into more homes, Anona Gow is proving that this ancient, nutritious meat deserves a place on everyone’s plate – any time of year.

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