I was excited when I learned Dil’Se on Perth Road was reopening.
The Indian restaurant, which first opened in 2003, was one of Dundee’s most popular eateries until it unexpectedly closed in February 2023.
Having never had a chance to visit before then, I often felt cheated whenever I passed by the empty unit on Perth Road.
But in October 2023, a month after it was put up for sale, it was bought by restauranter Alamgir Hossain, who also owns Indos Indian restaurant in Broughty Ferry, and Beans & Berries on Commercial Street in Dundee city centre.
And after an extensive renovation project, including a newly equipped kitchen, it reopened in September this year.
Although it will undoubtedly benefit from its established business name and glowing reputation, the venue faces some tough competition in Dundee, which is teeming with great Indian eateries.
On the same street is the iconic Balaka, as well as the ever-busy Babujee. Meanwhile, my favourite Indian restaurant in the city, Rishi’s, sits on the nearby Hawkhill.
Keen to see how Dil’Se compares to its rivals – and whether or not it would live up to its former glory – I headed for dinner.
Dil’Se, Perth Road
Dil’Se, with its bright white exterior, distinctive neon signage and modern glass facade which reveals an indoor staircase, is easily the prettiest restaurant on Perth Road.
Inside, it perfectly straddles the line between traditional and contemporary: chintzy elephant wall art and crisp white tablecloths are bathed in hues of pink and purple from the new Gen Z-like digital lighting system.
It feels like the kind of place you would visit for a special occasion. Really, they’ve done a great job.
But, aside from the tinny Shawn Mendes music, it is oddly quiet for a Friday night. Only one other table is seated when my friend and I arrive.
The eery atmosphere concerns me. This can’t be a good sign for business. Still, the thought of a steaming nan soon cheers me up.
The food
Like any Indian restaurant worth its salt, the menu, featuring flavours from South Indian and Bangladeshi, is long and overwhelming, with a seemingly endless variety of dishes.
There’s a lovely balance of meaty, pescetarian and vegetarian options too.
You can have basically any of the curries in the form of a starter, side dish or main, which I appreciate.
There is also a decent value early evening menu, with one starter, one main and one side for £19.95.
For my starter, I push the boat out and order the chilli paneer, which I’ve never tried before.
Chunks of cheese with crunchy onions and bell peppers arrive in a glossy tomato sauce. It is spicy, but nothing I can’t handle without a few gulps of sparkling water.
Scattered with herbs and served with a citrusy green salad, it avoids feeling too heavy. Which is impressive, for a plate of cheese.
It is a great introduction to the dish. I struggle to imagine it tasting any better than this.
My friend Michael goes for the vegetable pakora (we can’t all be as adventurous as me) and is presented with a generous portion of six crispy fritters, alongside a salad and a trio of dipping sauces.
His thoughts? “I would go out on a limb and say it is the best vegetable pakora I’ve ever had. Although I usually order them from late-night takeaways.”
High praise – I think.
Next, I order the aloo saag – a popular Indian dish of potatoes (aloo) and leafy greens (saag) typically cooked with turmeric, coriander, chilli, ginger and cumin.
After double-checking I want this as my main meal – it’s traditionally served as a side dish – the waiter asks how “juicy” I would like it.
Delicious vegetarian curry options at Dil’Se on Perth Road
Slightly unsure, I ask for it to be “a little juicy”.
“We’ll make it really nice and a little juicy for you,” he says.
It is delicious. Really nice and a little juicy. With tender, melt-in-the-mouth potatoes and silky spinach soaked in a delicate gravy.
It is only lacking in a tiny touch of spice or seasoning or something. I find myself glancing around for a non-existent salt shaker.
Sizzling and smoking in a cast iron skillet, Michael’s chicken tikka tandoori makes an exciting entrance on a dinky silver tea trolley.
The meat, which has been marinated in spices, yoghurt and herbs and cooked in a traditional clay oven, is juicy and flavoursome, he says.
But he is underwhelmed by the tikka sauce, which could be creamier.
All “salad-ed out” after his starter, the side of greens goes ignored.
The nans – pashwari for me, garlic for Michael – come daintily cut up into rectangular slices.
Glistening with ghee and, in my case, generously stuffed with a sweet and moist coconut paste, they are spot-on.
“All nans are the same, but this one is especially big,” is Michael’s verdict. He seems happy.
Meanwhile, the pilau rice is light, fluffy and wondrously aromatic. I never tire of good rice.
Inevitably, we have overordered and a brown paper bag for leftovers has to be requested.
Somehow, when I take them out of my freezer a few weeks later, they taste even better.
The verdict
Before my visit to Dil’Se, I was concerned about how I would review my third Indian restaurant in Dundee (I’ve also had the pleasure of visiting Goa in Broughty Ferry and Babujee on Perth Road).
Surely there are only so many ways I can describe a curry?
But I’m glad I gave it a go.
With prompt and professional service, beautiful decor and a thrilling range of dishes – Dil’Se holds its own amongst the plethora of high-quality Indian eateries in the city.
Having added it to my roster of favourite Dundee restaurants, I would like to see it become the roaring success it once was.
Even its bathrooms impress, with Michael drilly noting it is “the most excited I have seen you all evening” when I rave about the shiny worktops and grand mirrors.
By the time we leave, two other tables have been seated. Hopefully, things will pick up over the festive period.
Information
Address: 99-101 Perth Rd, Dundee DD1 4JA
T: 01382 911177
Price: £61.65 for two starters, two mains, four sides and two soft drinks.
Scores:
Food: 4
Service: 3
Surroundings: 4
For more restaurant reviews, check out our food and drink section.
Conversation