When I walked into The Adamson in St Andrews, I had no idea I was about to learn how to create a dish that would redefine my concept of fish and chips.
Guided by Rory MacCrimmon, the executive head chef renowned for his culinary creativity, I was treated to an unforgettable lesson in precision, innovation, and flavour.
The dish was gluten-free, sophisticated, and entirely satisfying – a perfect representation of Rory’s approach to cooking.
Our session began with making the gluten-free batter.
This free-from version is made by simply swapping the flour for gluten-free flour and we agreed that batter made without gluten is often lighter and more crispy than the regular kind.
I assumed we would then be coating the fish in the batter, but Rory directed me to the fryer where he let drops of the batter fall sizzling into the hot oil.
Frying tiny balls of batter
Once the balls of batter were cooked he scooped them out with a slotted spoon and we had fancy scraps – some of you will remember going to the chippy last thing at night to get a free bag of deliciously greasy scraps.
Then we moved on to making a warm tartar sauce.
Unlike the cold dollop typically served alongside traditional fish and chips, this version is gently heated and includes diced potatoes that had been par-cooked before being finished in the sauce.
The centrepiece was a fillet of halibut, a meaty yet delicate fish that Rory grilled to an internal temperature of 53 degrees Celsius before being blackened on one side with a blowtorch.
This was my moment to shine – or to set the kitchen on fire.
Let loose with a blowtorch
Rory held the tray steady as I wielded the blowtorch, carefully firing the surface of the fish without overdoing it.
I’m sure it took me a lot longer than the eight seconds on each fish that Rory suggested, and I set the fish on fire a couple of times and almost burnt his thumb – but we got here in the end!
When it came to plating up, Rory went first and then I was to copy him. My competitive streak came to the fore and I watched him keenly.
The fish was placed on top of a few spoons of the warm tartar sauce with potatoes, then we added the crispy balls of batter seasoned with salt and vinegar.
Whose plate looks best?
These scraps were a stroke of genius, capturing the essence of a chippy supper without the heaviness and transforming something so humble into a textural highlight of the dish.
The final assembly included three dollops of curry sauce – a nod to the classic chip shop condiment – as well as silver skin pickled onions, fennel fronds for a delicate garnish, and a drizzle of intensely concentrated herb oil.
Each element was carefully balanced, creating a harmonious dish that celebrated the fresh, clean flavours of the halibut while adding layers of sharpness, crunch, and warmth.
The result was nothing short of extraordinary – even if you could tell the difference between Rory’s skilful presentation and my enthusiastic but amateur effort.
The verdict
The creamy tartar sauce with tatties infused with its the tangy flavours, paired beautifully with the fresh, meaty halibut.
The batter scraps and pickled onions added crunch and zing, while the curry sauce brought a surprising warmth that tied everything together.
It was a dish that celebrated tradition while pushing boundaries.
I’m already planning my next visit to The Adamson to enjoy this dish again – this time with a lovely glass of wine.
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