After 15 years of running the much-loved Ondine restaurant in Edinburgh, chef Roy Brett is turning his attention to St Andrews.
His new venture, Ondine Oyster & Grill, is taking bookings from March 6 within the brand-new Seaton House Hotel, an exciting addition to the town’s vibrant food scene.
The hotel overlooking the breath-taking West Sands, will also house another of Roy’s dining concepts, The Boardroom.
A menu rooted in the seasons
So what can diners expect from Ondine in St Andrews?
Roy emphasises his commitment to seasonality, saying, “When you write a menu, you’re thinking about a month or two ahead.
“So we’re looking now at the first shoots of wild garlic coming through. We’re looking ahead to spring. What fish is going to be available and what veg is available?”
Among the local ingredients he’s excited to showcase are the sought-after Lunan Bay asparagus, abundant Fife berries, and, of course, the region’s world-class seafood and shellfish.
Roy has always been deeply invested in sourcing from Scotland’s east coast, and St Andrews puts him even closer to his trusted suppliers.
“Oysters are, of course, a huge part of Ondine,” Roy says, recalling how his Edinburgh restaurant would shuck and serve around 300 a day.
“I’m really excited about opening the oyster bar in St Andrews.” He’s also looking forward to unveiling the rich, colourful interior of the space at Seaton House Hotel.
One of the things Roy loves most about Seaton House Hotel is its stunning location.
“When you get to Ondine, there’s this incredible view right along the West Sands. We can shuck the oysters in front of the guests and have a chat – with that view!”
Menu with a nod to Rick Stein
One staple that will make its way to St Andrews is the fish and shellfish soup, a dish he’s served since his time working with Rick Stein in Cornwall.
“In fact,” Roy adds, “I just made a pot of it today.”
Another highlight will be brown butter crumpets with local brown crab, alongside fan-favourite salt and pepper squid tempura, a dish that has been with him since day one.
For those craving a taste of luxury, the hot shellfish platter and turbot with hollandaise sauce will be standout options, the latter inspired by Rick Stein’s legendary restaurant, which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year.
While seafood is at the heart of Ondine, Roy reassures diners that the “Grill” aspect of the name is equally important.
Quality steaks too!
“It isn’t just seafood – so you can expect great steaks too.” The menu will include aged Angus sirloin, ensuring a well-rounded offering for all palates.
Roy’s career has taken him across the UK, from leading the Malmaison group as executive head chef to a five-year stint with Rick Stein.
“I really enjoyed it. I opened a lot of businesses with him and loved working with local fishermen in Cornwall, the suppliers, the local people, local growers.”
That same ethos is what he now brings to St Andrews, where he aims to work closely with the community.
His relationships with suppliers like I. J. Mellis cheesemongers stretch back over 30 years, and he’s excited to deepen those connections in his new home base.
The Boardroom: a unique dining experience
Beyond Ondine, Roy is also overseeing the launch of The Boardroom, a second restaurant within Seaton House Hotel that will offer a distinctive take on hotel dining and will open a month or so after Ondine.
“In hotels, there can be just a very general offering of food, but we decided to create a space that’s almost like an open-plan theatre.”
A centrepiece of the restaurant will be a traditional Italian slicer showcasing Scottish charcuterie and Tuscan-cured meats, alongside a stunning cheese selection.
“It’s like a cheese lounge meets a charcuterie room with cured fish to boot,” Roy explains.
For him, dining isn’t just about food – it’s about connection. “The Boardroom and the Oyster Bar are all about performance. It’s about letting the customer be closer to the food and the process.”
With the grand opening fast approaching, Roy can hardly contain his excitement. “I just want to get going now! I’m really excited about it.”
Conversation