How the humble pie became a Dundee staple

As British Pie Week approaches from March 3rd to 9th it’s the perfect time to delve into Dundee’s rich and tasty pie heritage.

From bustling bakeries to beloved local traditions, pies – or “pehs” as they are commonly known – have been a cornerstone of the city’s culinary identity.

A slice of history

The story of the Dundee pie begins in 1892 when David Wallace, a determined baker, opened the Auld Dundee Pie Shop in a narrow street called The Vault.

Confident in his recipe, he was ready to build a name for himself. But success didn’t come easy. On his first day, Wallace sold just four penny pies.

Hoping for better luck, he stayed open on Victoria Day, a traditional shopkeepers’ holiday. But by lunchtime, he had sold only one pie.

The Auld Dundee Pie Shop on Castle Street in 1977 (C)DCT

Frustrated, he locked up, walked to the docks, and flung his shop key into the river. It could have been the end – but his wife convinced him to get another key made the next day.

Slowly, trade picked up.

The aroma of freshly baked pies lured hungry drinkers from the city’s pubs, and Wallace’s reputation grew.

Pies become a staple of Dundee life

By 1924, the shop moved to Castle Street, where it flourished. A tearoom and bakehouse were added, and Wallace’s pies became a staple of Dundee life.

Even after Wallace passed in 1926, his family carried on the legacy, expanding with branches across the city, including Loftus Tea Rooms in Broughty Ferry.

At its peak, the Auld Dundee Pie Shop was selling 10,000 bridies every Saturday, serving up pies, sausage rolls, mince and tatties, and the sought-after onion bridie.

This area is seriously pie-crazy. Image: Steve Brown / DC Thomson

The shop became a meeting place for town councillors, earning the nickname ‘Pie Shop Parliament.’

But in 1977, after 85 years, the shutters came down for the last time. Ronald Wallace retired, selling the business to hotel tycoon Reo Stakis.

With its closure, a beloved chapter of Dundee’s history ended – but the legend of the Dundee pie lives on.

Famous Scotch pie

Its exact origins remain uncertain, but it’s believed the Scotch pie evolved from the ‘penny mutton pie’ popular in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.

This traditional delicacy features a sturdy, hot-water crust pastry filled with spiced minced meat, originally mutton.

The 2021 Scotch Pie Awards. Image: Steve Brown / DC Thomson

In Dundee, the Scotch pie became an integral part of the city’s culture.

During World War Two, its significance was officially recognised when meat allocations were granted to pie-makers, acknowledging the pie as an essential component of the Dundonian diet.

Local bakers such as David Robb MacDonald, Scott Brothers, and Wallace’s have upheld this rich tradition, ensuring the Scotch pie remains a beloved treat.

The pie’s association with Scottish football culture is legendary. Fans attending matches at Dens Park and Tannadice Park queue for a warm, hearty Scotch pie to this day.

Alan Pirie with his award winning Scotch pies in 2024. Image: Mhairi Edwards/DC Thomson

Celebrating excellence in pie-making, the World Championship Scotch Pie Awards were established in 1999.

James Pirie & Son, a family-owned butcher based in Newtyle, won the competition in 2018, 2020, 2022, and 2024, and earned the title of Champion of Champions in 2021.

Clark’s Bakery: a family tradition

Another key player in the Dundee pie scene is Clark’s Bakery – many a reveller is grateful for the 24-hour bakery after a night out.

Established in 1950 by Ernest Earle Clark, Clark’s Bakery has been a cornerstone of Dundee’s baking community for over 70 years.

Pies galore at Clarks 24hr bakery. Image: Mhairi Edwards/DC Thomson

From its humble beginnings on Annfield Road, the bakery has expanded to multiple locations, employing over 100 staff.

Now under the stewardship of third-generation baker Jonathon Clark, the bakery serves traditional favourites while embracing modern tastes, ensuring the ‘peh’ remains a beloved staple in Dundee’s culinary landscape.

A city united by pies

Beyond individual establishments, the peh has played a pivotal role in uniting the Dundee community.

From football matches to school dinners, pehs have been a constant presence in the city’s social fabric.

Colin Smith has been a baker at Clark’s for 32 years. Image: Mhairi Edwards/DC Thomson

The shared experience of enjoying a warm, meaty pastry (or my favourite macaroni cheese pie!) fosters a sense of belonging and nostalgia, connecting Dundonians across generations.

This British Pie Week, let’s raise a fork to the ‘peh’ and the city that loves it so dearly.

Tell us your favourite pie and any tales of pie nostalgia in the comments below.