Ondine Oyster & Grill was elegant but held some surprises

The much-anticipated opening of Ondine Oyster & Grill at the brand-new Seaton House Hotel in St Andrews is just around the corner, with bookings being taken from March 7.

I was lucky enough to get a sneak peek at the soft launch, accompanied by my seafood-loving niece, Alexandra.

Alexandra and Rachel enjoyed a glass of Champagne in the sumptuous bar before dinner.

With the promise of a feast devised by renowned chef Roy Brett and prepared by executive chef Mark Drummond, we arrived ready to indulge.

A grand exterior

Perched on The Scores, the hotel itself is an imposing and elegant building, its glass-fronted restaurants gleaming invitingly on the first floor.

The outside of Ondine in Seaton House Hotel, St Andrews.

The grand entrance exudes luxury, making it clear that this is a special destination.

We were immediately struck by that unmistakable scent of newness – fresh paint, polished wood, and expensive furnishings.

The hotel has only 42 rooms, but the space felt vast and labyrinthine.

Thankfully, we were guided to the bar, where plush leather chairs, oversized mirrors (which double as TV screens for sporting events), and an air of opulence awaited us.

The bar smelled like a brand-new, top-of-the-range car.

We were welcomed with glasses of crisp, chilled champagne alongside a generous serving of enormous olives and delicious almonds – a perfect way to whet the appetite.

Soon, it was time to head into the restaurant itself.

What is the restaurant like?

Ondine Oyster & Grill is an intimate space, with just a handful of diners present that evening – mainly family and friends of the staff, giving the kitchen a trial run before the grand opening.

Ondine Oyster & Grill in Seaton House Hotel.

All of the tables are close to the large windows to make the most of the amazing views. But, being evening, we missed out on what promises to be a breath-taking vista over the Old Course, West Sands, and out to sea.

A clever design touch is the mirror behind the oyster bar, allowing diners seated there to enjoy the views without turning around.

Oysters to start, of course

We began with an oyster each topped with a firecracker dressing, a beautifully balanced combination of chilli, shallots, rice wine vinegar, and mirin.

The sharpness, the subtle heat, and the fresh creaminess of the oyster itself – sourced from Lindisfarne – made for a sensational start.

Champagne in hand, we savoured every second of it.

Next came the bread and butter. Now, bread and butter may not seem remarkable, but this wasn’t just any butter. It had a distinct umami, almost fish-like flavour.

Something fishy about this butter?

Our curiosity piqued, we were told the secret: the butter was infused with dulse seaweed.

Unusual yet delicious, it was a small but memorable highlight.

Alexandra opted for the Welch’s smoked salmon with soda bread. Thick-cut, glistening, and jewel-like in colour, it was a substantial portion, beautifully presented with capers, finely chopped shallots, and butter.

She loved it, though the portion was so generous that she couldn’t quite finish it. Excellent value, indeed.

I went for the fish and shellfish soup, served with rouille, Gruyère, and croutons on the side. This allowed me to add toppings as I pleased – and I always want more toppings.

The fish and shellfish soup with toppings.

The soup itself had a deep flavour, rich, and comforting – ideal for a cold winter’s night.

I’d been eager to try this particular dish, as Roy Brett had spoken highly of it, and it did not disappoint.

Fish and chips done right

For my main course, I chose the lemon sole meunière, served on the bone with brown butter, shrimp, and capers.

The delicate fish flaked beautifully, the shrimps added a sweet seafood pop, and the sauce – both buttery and bright with lemon – was perfect.

The side of buttered spinach complemented it beautifully, while an unexpected standout was the Caesar salad.

It was presented as half a little gem lettuce, topped with a rich yet balanced dressing, heaps of cheese, and whole anchovy fillets.

Caesar salad was a surprise hit

It was one of the best Caesar salads I’ve had, and Alexandra agreed – we couldn’t stop eating it.

She went for the deep-fried haddock, which arrived as an impressively thick fillet with warm tartar sauce, fries, and mushy peas.

The fish was impeccably fresh, the batter crisp and golden, and while she’s not a fan of mushy peas, I happily helped myself to some.

The portions were generous, and by this point, we were both reaching our limits.

The dessert that got away

Despite our best intentions, we simply couldn’t manage dessert. I’d had my eye on the Basque cheesecake with rhubarb compote, while Alexandra was tempted by the blood orange and Amalfi lemon sorbet.

Alas, we had to admit defeat. But rest assured, I’ll be back to rectify this omission.

Service & Atmosphere

The staff were exceptional – attentive, knowledgeable, and polished without being overly formal.

Little touches elevated the experience, like the discreet refolding of napkins if we left the table. The team had clearly been well-briefed on every dish, adding to the sense of being in safe, capable hands.

The stunning Ondine Oyster & Grill at Seaton House Hotel.

Ondine Oyster & Grill is undoubtedly a special addition to St Andrews. While the setting is luxurious and the food top-tier, the team is keen to ensure that it remains accessible.

Whether you fancy a coffee and scone after a beach walk, oysters and champagne, or a full seafood feast, you’ll be welcomed.

The comfortable bar smelled like a brand new, luxury car.

The bar, too, is set to be a lively hub, especially with its big screens for major sporting events. It’s clear that while this venue exudes elegance, it’s also designed to be a place where people feel comfortable and relaxed.

I, for one, can’t wait to return. Next time, there will be oysters, there will be champagne – and there will definitely be room left for dessert.