Opening a new eatery is never easy, but for Steve and Hilary Barney, the husband-and-wife duo behind Dundee and Broughty Ferry’s beloved Cheesery delicatessens, their latest venture, ATE, nearly didn’t happen at all.
Just days before launch, a fire broke out in their home, throwing their plans into chaos.
But after some emergency clean-up – and a well-earned bottle of wine and cheese (of course) – they decided to press ahead, opening the doors of their new lunchtime café on April 2.
Right next door to The Cheesery on Exchange Street, ATE is a vibrant and airy café serving up sandwiches, soups, and salads from Tuesday to Friday, 11am to 3pm.
With a name that’s both a playful nod to eating and a throwback to their early days running a London-based street food truck, ATE promises a taste experience that goes well beyond just cheese.
A quiet opening, a loud response
Despite keeping their launch low-key, relying on word of mouth rather, ATE has already been pulling in the crowds.
Exchange Street is a well-trodden path for Dundee’s hungry office workers, and it didn’t take long for word to spread about this exciting new lunch spot.
The menu, which is supplemented with daily specials, is a celebration of fresh, high-quality ingredients. When I visited, I tried the Scottish onion soup, served with a St Andrews cheddar sourdough crouton.
They had a challenge here, as my mum makes the best French onion soup, however Hilary’s version was equally comforting and wholesome.
Onion soup as good as Mum’s?
With strong savoury flavours and a tangy sweetness from the onions, it was the perfect antidote to the lingering chill in the air. At just £4, and served with a slice of cheese on toast, it felt like a bargain.
I also tried the spiced egg mayo on sourdough, which was a revelation. This wasn’t your average egg mayo – ATE’s version comes packed with grated carrot, celery, spring onion, and green chilli, giving it a unique crunch and a delightful spicy heat.
Topped with pickled chilli for extra zing, it was as beautiful as it was delicious. “We’ve been making this at home for years,” Hilary told me. I added some of their homemade pickled onions for sweet contrast.
A Taste Experience beyond cheese
For a place run by the Cheesery team, ATE isn’t just about dairy. Sure, there’s an indulgent grilled cheese option – raclette and St Andrews cheddar with chilli jam on cheese and leek bread with pickle – but the menu extends far beyond melted goodness.
Photographer Kim, tackled the grilled halloumi ciabatta with cabbage salad, harissa mayo, and house tzatziki (£5.50). “It’s huge,” he said between bites, struggling to keep up with the sheer volume of flavours and textures. “But so, so good.”
Then there’s the Asian noodle salad, a light yet flavour-packed option with cashews and house-pickled chilies, with optional grilled chicken for extra protein.
Priced at just £5 (£7.50 with chicken), it’s a testament to ATE’s commitment to offering high-quality, affordable meals.
Street food to street-front café
ATE represents a full-circle moment for Steve and Hilary. Before they moved to Scotland and opened The Cheesery, they ran a street food truck in London, also named ATE.
“We were brainstorming over espresso martinis one night after a meal at Heston Blumenthal’s place,” Steve recalled. “We liked the number eight, and eventually, it became ATE – A Taste Experience.”
The design of their new café nods to those food truck days. The front counter features white corrugated iron, a direct homage to their van, while the fresh, modern interior in shades of pink, blue, and cream creates a cheerful space for customers to enjoy their food.
The fire that almost stopped it all
Despite their enthusiasm for the new venture, opening week nearly didn’t happen. On the Sunday before launch, a toy in their home caught fire while they were out.
“Luckily, we got back in time to stop it spreading too far,” Hilary says. “But for a moment, we thought – there’s no way we can open this week.”
After an emergency McDonald’s dinner for their kids, they returned home to clean up the mess. “We opened a bottle of wine, had some cheese, and by the end of the night, we thought – nah, let’s go for it,” Steve said.
A warm welcome for a new favourite
Dundee has embraced ATE with open arms. Even during my visit, I saw customers returning for their second lunch in two days. “We wanted to start small, see what people liked,” Hilary said. “But the response has been amazing.”
They’re already considering extending their hours, possibly adding a Saturday service or even a breakfast menu if demand is strong.
With their focus on fresh, thoughtful food – including gluten-free, vegetarian, and vegan options – it’s clear that ATE is set to become a lunchtime favourite in the city.
As for Steve, what’s his current menu highlight? “I never thought I’d say this, but Hilary’s quinoa and kale salad is unreal. I wasn’t convinced at first, but the dressing is amazing.”
With everything under £10, ATE offers great value and quality, with interesting dishes that go way beyond your average sandwich shop.
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