With all eyes on the opening of V&A Dundee today, Caroline Lindsay chats to Brian Canale, head chef at the V&A’s Tatha Bar and Kitchen, about his culinary influences
Q Desert island food?
A It would have to be a buffalo steak with bone marrow mash cooked on a wood fire – this is my ideal comfort food.
Q Favourite TV chef?
A Rick Stein as I feel I’ve grown up with him watching him on TV. He is a chef that actually just lets the product speak for itself, which ties in with my love for ‘honest cooking’.
Q Favourite cook book?
A Atelier Crenn: Metamorphosis of Taste. Chef Dominique Crenn is somebody who really knows how to gather and produce natural ingredients.
Q Favourite ingredient?
A Morel mushrooms as they just taste of the outdoors naturally.
Q Most hated ingredient?
A Bought-in ready to use bouillons, the flavours just taste false and full of synthetics.
Q Perfect dinner guest?
A My late Italian grandmother who taught me how to cook! She had the passion with every slight detail and I would love for her to see where I am today and taste my own tomato and basil sauce.
Q Favourite kitchen gadget?
A My Thermomix, a great part of kit, it’s just perfect.
Q Favourite music to cook to?
A To be honest ,anything, but I like the radio on to listen to what’s happening in the world – working such long hours we sometimes miss out!
Q Perfect menu?
A I love seafood: turbot or halibut are my favourite fish just left simple with some nice salad. I’m not a massive fan of desserts, but a classic crème brûlée wins every time.
Q Favourite country for food?
A That’s easy, it has to be Italy by the coast – plenty of seafood and great pasta. The Italians know how to just let the product speak for itself, and an ice cold glass of beer… perfect.
Q Favourite chef, alive or dead?
A Dominique Crenn, she just has the natural ability to create beautiful and such tasty food. Her kitchen is like poetry to watch, it just flows with passion and respect.
Q Favourite culinary season?
A It has to be autumn: the colour of the trees, wild mushrooms and the sound of the geese arriving telling us that it’s game season. I love great comfort food with the dark nights in front of the fire
Q Salt or pepper?
A Has to be both, I can’t live without them.
Q Favourite spice?
A Chinese 5 spice. I just love it in slow cooked meats as it adds a richness to the flavour.
Q Favourite way to cook the humble potato?
A Just simple boiled potatoes tossed in chervil and la ight French dressing
Q Favourite go-to recipe if you’re in a hurry?
A Has to be a quick pasta with seafood and picked basil with some crusty bread. It takes minutes and it’s what I live on in busy periods.
Q Favourite naughty nibble?
A Chips and curry sauce.
Q Ideal picnic dish?
A Whole side of fresh salmon wrapped and cooked in puff pastry with light herbs and cherry tomatoes.
Q Ideal BBQ food?
A A whole chicken marinated in light ale, honey and charred lemons.
Q Are you critical of the food when you’re dining out?
A No, I appreciate what goes into it and quite often eat in very casual places.
Q Do you tip in restaurants?
A Yes, again I appreciate the effort and long hours that everyone puts in. I’m a big believer that tips should be shared with everyone in the establishment, including the kitchen porters,the back bone of any business.
Q Top tip for failsafe cooking?
A Keeping it simple, never overcomplicating the dishes or menu. Buy the best you can.
Q Worst cooking sin?
A Taking shortcuts/under seasoning and just not showing the product the respect and care that it deserves.
Tatha pork cheeks
Ingredients
For the kimchi: (carrot, fennel, cabbage) – 120g of each
100ml Thai fish sauce
50ml rice vinegar
12 pork cheeks
120g smoked chilli jam
100ml soya sauce
2tsp Chinese 5 spice
1 pineapple
1tsp cinnamon
50g sugar
For the aioli: 15g paprika
Crushed garlic
30g cashew nuts
100ml mayonnaise
4 spring onions
2 red chillies
Directions
To make the Kimchi: shred the carrot, fennel and cabbage and sprinkle with salt. Leave for approx. 2 hours before rinsing. Then add in Thai fish sauce and rice vinegar and place in a jar and leave for a minimum of 24hours to ferment.
Slow cook the pork cheeks in smoked chilli jam, soya sauce and Chinese 5 spice for approximately two hours.
Once cheeks are cooked remove from pan and reduce the stock to a syrup before pouring over the pork cheeks.
Peel the pineapple, cut into wedges, toss in cinnamon and sugar and slow roast for around 30 minutes (or until tender).
To make the aioli: add paprika and crushed garlic to some mayonnaise.
Wilt the pak choi with melted butter in a pan for two minutes and add it to the dish when serving.
To serve, place the kimchi, roasted pineapple and pork cheeks into a bowl and garnish with cashew nuts, spring onions and red chillies.
