Callum Gilmour, head chef of The Saint in St Andrews reveals his foodie loves – and a hatred of flour.
Q Desert Island food?
A A nice, warm loaf of crusty white bread and a big block of Scottish, salted butter. It is my perfect comfort food. It really does make anywhere feel like home!
Q Favourite TV chef?
A Probably Jamie Oliver purely for the way in which he approaches food and flavours; everything is effortless, rustic and accessible for anyone to try and do. He has opened people’s eyes to so many new ingredients and encourages people to try new things.
Q Favourite cook book?
A I prefer to use the Great British Chefs website (greatbritishchefs.com) for inspiration. It is constantly being updated and hosts a collection of all the best recipes from the best chefs. I always recommended it to people if they feel like they’re stuck in a rut with cooking and need inspiration.
Q Favourite ingredient?
A Italian lemons – especially ones from the Amalfi Coast or Sorrento. They just lift everything in a dish and it always adds a lovely bit of acidity. Plus they smell awesome! They’re so versatile too – the juice, the flesh, the zest and the oil can all be used in different ways.
Q Most hated ingredient?
A Flour – it gets everywhere. I’m a clean freak and I hate any mess!
Q Perfect dinner guest?
A My partner – nobody else comes close, she’s the perfect guest in every way!
Q Favourite kitchen gadget?
A Stick blender – it speeds up prep times if you have the right attachments. It’s the best thing since crusty bread!
Q Favourite music to cook to?
A Nothing beats some good old Andy Weatherall techno on a busy Friday night service. It gets your blood pumping and the whole team raring to go. The rest of the time, I’m pretty open to anything as long as it’s full of energy and positivity!
Q Perfect menu?
A One I don’t have to write! Joking aside, I love trying new food and recipes made by others. That is more exciting to me than writing my own perfect menu and it makes working in the culinary industry so fascinating. It’s constantly changing and you’re always learning!
Q Favourite country for food?
A Thailand – awesome flavours, simple ingredients and the food is healthy, for the most part.
Q Favourite chef, alive or dead?
A My gran – nowt beats her soups and stews!
Q Favourite culinary season?
A Autumn because you get a little bit of summer and winter – it’s like getting the best of everything. Some of my favourite ingredients arrive in the autumn such as squash, sweet potatoes, sprouts and fennel.
Q Salt or pepper?
A This question is tough because you can’t have one without the other in my opinion. If I had to pick one, it would be salt.
Q Favourite herb?
A Coriander – it has such a bright and fresh flavour and goes with so many other ingredients.
Q Favourite spice?
A Cardamom – I first tried it in an ice cream and found the flavour combination just amazing. I now like to add it to a variety of recipes to really get the taste buds tingling.
Q Favourite way to cook the humble potato?
A That’s an easy one – mashed, all day long! Just make sure to add loads of butter, cream and a good dose of salt. You can’t beat it!
Q Favourite go-to recipe if you’re in a hurry?
A Homemade wild mushroom fried rice – it’s super quick to make at the end of a long day and full of flavour.
Q Favourite naughty nibble?
A I vary with my moods – I am a chef after all! I love Scottish berries – raspberries and wild brambles in the summer. I collect them when I’m out walking and the fresh flavour is amazing.
Q Favourite health food?
A I was told black pudding is a superfood so I’ll go with that! I do also love mushrooms though.
Q Ideal picnic dish?
A Nice, simple pasta of some kind. You can keep it rustic with just some olive oil and herbs or go more elaborate if you fancy. It also transports well which is vital for a good picnic dish.
Q Ideal BBQ food?
A Kebabs, lamb, beef, fish whatever, so long as it’s tender and smoky! You can experiment with different meats, matching different textures and flavours to see what works best for you.
Q Are you critical of the food when you’re dining out?
A Not really – I like to weigh up the whole experience and be constructive. I love a nice expensive meal with the missus but I can never overlook a great pub meal. Most of the time, you get what you pay for. If something is really bad though, I’ll always give the place another chance. It’s a philosophy that has worked throughout my life and has led to me finding some really decent food haunts.
Q Do you tip in restaurants?
A Always!
Q Top tip for failsafe cooking?
A Clean as you go and be prepared! Don’t just wing it as that’s when things are likely to go wrong. Think about what you want to do, prepare everything in advance, then tackle the cooking!
Q Worst cooking sin in your opinion?
A Pineapple on a pizza, it’s just wrong!
Q Desert Island food?
A A nice, warm loaf of crusty white bread and a big block of Scottish, salted butter. It is my perfect comfort food. It really does make anywhere feel like home!
Q Favourite TV chef?
A Probably Jamie Oliver purely for the way in which he approaches food and flavours; everything is effortless, rustic and accessible for anyone to try and do. He has opened people’s eyes to so many new ingredients and encourages people to try new things.
Q Favourite cook book?
A I prefer to use the Great British Chefs website (greatbritishchefs.com) for inspiration. It is constantly being updated and hosts a collection of all the best recipes from the best chefs. I always recommended it to people if they feel like they’re stuck in a rut with cooking and need inspiration.
Q Favourite ingredient?
A Italian lemons – especially ones from the Amalfi Coast or Sorrento. They just lift everything in a dish and it always adds a lovely bit of acidity. Plus they smell awesome! They’re so versatile too – the juice, the flesh, the zest and the oil can all be used in different ways.
Q Most hated ingredient?
A Flour – it gets everywhere. I’m a clean freak and I hate any mess!
Q Perfect dinner guest?
A My partner – nobody else comes close, she’s the perfect guest in every way!
Q Favourite kitchen gadget?
A Stick blender – it speeds up prep times if you have the right attachments. It’s the best thing since crusty bread!
Q Favourite music to cook to?
A Nothing beats some good old Andy Weatherall techno on a busy Friday night service. It gets your blood pumping and the whole team raring to go. The rest of the time, I’m pretty open to anything as long as it’s full of energy and positivity!
Q Perfect menu?
A One I don’t have to write! Joking aside, I love trying new food and recipes made by others. That is more exciting to me than writing my own perfect menu and it makes working in the culinary industry so fascinating. It’s constantly changing and you’re always learning!
Q Favourite country for food?
A Thailand – awesome flavours, simple ingredients and the food is healthy, for the most part.
Q Favourite chef, alive or dead?
A My gran – nowt beats her soups and stews!
Q Favourite culinary season?
A Autumn because you get a little bit of summer and winter – it’s like getting the best of everything. Some of my favourite ingredients arrive in the autumn such as squash, sweet potatoes, sprouts and fennel.
Q Salt or pepper?
A This question is tough because you can’t have one without the other in my opinion. If I had to pick one, it would be salt.
Q Favourite herb?
A Coriander – it has such a bright and fresh flavour and goes with so many other ingredients.
Q Favourite spice?
A Cardamom – I first tried it in an ice cream and found the flavour combination just amazing. I now like to add it to a variety of recipes to really get the taste buds tingling.
Q Favourite way to cook the humble potato?
A That’s an easy one – mashed, all day long! Just make sure to add loads of butter, cream and a good dose of salt. You can’t beat it!
Q Favourite go-to recipe if you’re in a hurry?
A Homemade wild mushroom fried rice – it’s super quick to make at the end of a long day and full of flavour.
Q Favourite naughty nibble?
A I vary with my moods – I am a chef after all! I love Scottish berries – raspberries and wild brambles in the summer. I collect them when I’m out walking and the fresh flavour is amazing.
Q Favourite health food?
A I was told black pudding is a superfood so I’ll go with that! I do also love mushrooms though.
Q Ideal picnic dish?
A Nice, simple pasta of some kind. You can keep it rustic with just some olive oil and herbs or go more elaborate if you fancy. It also transports well which is vital for a good picnic dish.
Q Ideal BBQ food?
A Kebabs, lamb, beef, fish whatever, so long as it’s tender and smoky! You can experiment with different meats, matching different textures and flavours to see what works best for you.
Q Are you critical of the food when you’re dining out?
A Not really – I like to weigh up the whole experience and be constructive. I love a nice expensive meal with the missus but I can never overlook a great pub meal. Most of the time, you get what you pay for. If something is really bad though, I’ll always give the place another chance. It’s a philosophy that has worked throughout my life and has led to me finding some really decent food haunts.
Q Do you tip in restaurants?
A Always!
Q Top tip for failsafe cooking?
A Clean as you go and be prepared! Don’t just wing it as that’s when things are likely to go wrong. Think about what you want to do, prepare everything in advance, then tackle the cooking!
Q Worst cooking sin in your opinion?
A Pineapple on a pizza, it’s just wrong!
Homemade haggis with mash, turnip confit and beef sauce
Serves 4
Ingredients:
For the haggis: 1kg lamb plucks
220g pinhead oats
400g white onions, dice
300g beef suet
10g cayenne pepper
10g nutmeg
20g garlic powder
30g ground all spice
30g cracked black pepper
30g ground sea salt
For the mash: 8 white potatoes
20ml double cream
30g unsalted butter
For the confit turnip: ½ turnip, cut into squares
50g duck fat
1tsp fresh thyme, chopped
1tsp fresh rosemary, chopped
4 cloves of garlic, roughly crushed
For the beef sauce: 200ml beef stock
50ml red wine
20ml whisky
20ml cream
For the haggis, place lamb plucks in a pot and cover with water – bring to boil and simmer for around 1 hour. Take lamb plucks out of water and leave to cool. Fry onions in a pan until golden and add the beef suet, spices and pepper. Add the oats and enough of the cooking liquid from the lamb to cover the oats. Grate the lamb plucks and add to the food processor. Mix together thoroughly and taste season with salt and pepper. Take off the heat and leave to cool. Cover in plastic wrap and shape into rugby ball.
Next, make the mash potato. Peel the potatoes, place in a pot and cover with cold water. Boil until soft and then drain. Add butter and the cream and then mash with a potato ricer or hand-held masher. Season with salt and pepper.
To make the confit turnip, preheat the oven to 120°C. Warm the duck fat until it has turned to a liquid. Place the turnip, herbs and garlic in tray and cover with the fat. Cover with tin foil and put in oven to cook for around 40 minutes. Baste the turnip twice, once after 15 minutes and again after 30 minutes.
Next, make the beef sauce. Place the wine and beef stock into pan, bring to a boil then reduce to a low heat for 5 to 8 minutes. Add the cream and reduce until the sauce starts to thicken. Add whisky and season to taste. To serve, first place the mash and confit turnip on the plate before topping with the haggis and finally the beef sauce.
