Sometimes in life you just want to know that you’re in the hands of someone who knows what they’re doing. Doctors, dentists, plumbers, that sort of thing.
When you’re looking for good food, that kind of confidence is wonderful to have. And at this recently opened restaurant, snugly situated between Markinch and Glenrothes, you know you’re in good hands right from the start.
Chef Brian Coghill and his wife Michelle, in charge of front-of-house, have already established the very popular Meldrum’s Hotel in Ceres as a centre for superior bistro food with overtones of fine dining and their latest venture takes this a step further.
This is approachable cooking, well presented with skill and imagination and an eye for quality ingredients and interesting combinations.
The place is described as a restaurant and Iberian smokehouse and there’s a strong flavour of Spain and Portugal on the menu, inspired by two decades’ worth of experience running their own establishments on the peninsula. A speciality is pata negra, the famous acorn-fed “black pig” and there are other cosmopolitan dishes such as piri-piri chicken with an authentically spicy marinade.
But there’s also thoughtful use of local ingredients and a choice of dishes that encompasses everything from steak and ale pie and fish and chips (and the apparently awesome “Milton whale”!) to cannelloni of Arbroath smokie, “posh” cheese and ham toastie (featuring serrano ham and manchego cheese), veal olive, pave of venison and “posh” Scotch pie, served with a lamb cutlet.
Most of the starters on an impressive list are available at lunchtime individually or as part of a light tapas lunch selection served from Wednesday to Friday. There is also a tapas and cocktails evening on a Thursday.
Our starters were goat cheese pannacotta, served with two kinds of pickled beetroot and a pear and walnut crumble for me and seared sticky duck with Asian overtones – the breast marinated in sherry, served with duck crackling, a mini spring roll and sticky plum sauce (both £7.95).
Both of these were excellent – the goat cheese was beautifully tasty with plenty of bite and the pear and walnut crumble was an inspired complement. The duck was perfectly cooked and the accompaniments all individually excellent.
Mains? We had to try the black pig. No shades of Captain Pugwash here butbeautiful chargrilled meat, lightly smoked on the premises and oozing juiciness and flavour (£21.95). There is also an unsmoked version and both come with handmade chips, a house salad and a delicious rustic tomato, red onion and mustard relish. It was so good, it took Himself 10 minutes to realise that it had been served on a wooden board, something he usually turns up his nose at. Not here, however.
I plumped (and I use the word advisedly) for the tortellini of braised oxtail (£18.95), served with three generous slices of flat-iron steak, medium rare as recommended, a wild mushroom ketchup and a madeira sauce, brought separately in a little copper pan and poured over at the table. This was simply stunning; perfectly cooked and full of meatiness, sweetness and richness.
I don’t have much of a sweet tooth but I’m glad I didn’t bypass the caramelised lemon tart (£5.95). James, the young pastry chef, had created a brilliant concoction including raspberry sorbet, custard meringue and home-made raspberry marshmallow. The balance of sweet and citrussy was excellent.
The cheese board (£8.95) offered a French comte, a red wine-washed sheep’s cheese and the star of the show, a super-tangy wedge of Spanish picos blue which Michelle recommended should be paired with the little pot of honey provided. Himself wasn’t convinced when he started. But he was by the time the last morsel disappeared.
The setting is beautifully light and airy, comfortable yet decorated with attention to detail in neutral shades with a dash of flamboyance here and there. The service is very efficient and knowledgeable but also relaxed and informal.
There is a well-stocked bar where visitors are welcome to pop in for just a drink.
We enjoyed a Mimic Old Vine Shiraz 2013 (£19.95), a luscious Spanish version of the great Australian classic that partnered the big flavours of our main courses perfectly.
This team definitely knows what it’s at – and I already know what I’m going to have next time round!
Info
Price: starters £4.95-£7.95; mains £10.95-£22.95); desserts £5.95-£8.95
Value: 9/10
Menu: 9/10
Atmosphere: 8/10
Service: 8/10
Food: 9/10
Total: 43/50
Info: 43 Main Street
Address: Milton of Balgonie, Glenrothes, Fife K7 6PX
Tel: 01592 757361
