Monachyle Mhor is off the beaten track. It is not somewhere I would have stumbled across had it not been for many friends speaking so highly of it after special overnight trips there as well as creating many happy memories at the summer music and food festival held on the estate each summer.
The setting of the boutique hotel is breathtaking – Scotland at its best – overlooking not only a stunning loch but surrounded by grand and imposing hills. The weather during our visit was dark and and moody which made the sight of the pink stone building all the more charming. We were very warmly welcomed into the intimate and cosy on-trend dark grey bar by the beaming staff and enjoyed a drink by the open fire whilst perusing the menu.
At lunchtime, there are three choices for each course, a meat, a fish and a veggie. Although this doesn’t sound a lot, and Mr Kerry and I observed that we would perhaps have liked just one more option, I still struggled to choose. My starter of wood pigeon was outstanding. The pink breast was faultlessly cooked and a meat that can so easily become tough was decadently tender.The accompanying Tamworth pork was served laced with anise in a crispy wonton-style creation which was rich and sweet and the kale and turnip completed a dish that I could eat again and again and again.
Mr Kerry’s truffled cauliflower soup was oh so velvety. I am not a huge fan of truffle as I find it overpowering but in this dish, it simply added another dimension to an already deep, earthy, creamy flavour. Wonderful.
I chose the North Sea Turbot as my main course which, as with everything else we had been served, was cooked perfectly. The cooking liquor had turned the corners of the fillet brown and crunchy but once pressed lightly, the moist, meaty flakes gave way and splayed into the olive and caper butter. I had to remind myself to take my time over this one as the portions are not large and I wanted to draw out the pleasure.
Mr Kerry had Monachyle venison with beetroot, artichoke and hazelnut. I really like a menu that describes what is to be cooked but omits just enough detail to create an element of surprise when presented. The unforeseen delight in this dish was that the pink-carved fillet was served with slow-cooked, pulled meat which gave each forkful of this dish an impressive variety of textures and flavours.
We both had dessert and my pistachio praline semifreddo was a lighter treat than Mr Kerry’s densely divine dark chocolate and maple délice. Both puddings were beautifully presented with many different elements and skills showcased within them.
We chose a fine dining restaurant as it was to be our last chance for a while to go somewhere which would provide an adventure for our tastebuds but which we were prepared to experience in a stuffy, white tableclothed environment; this was a slight risk as we visited on my actual due date.
Monachyle Mhor certainly does have white tablecloths, and the staff are immaculately presented in crisp white shirts and ties but this place if as far from pretentiousness as it could be. The welcome is as warm as the homemade sourdough, dogs are allowed in the hotel and the staff and owners are spirited and passionate. There is no need to whisper but simply to enjoy the exceptional food in a relaxed, quirky and beautiful environment.
Info
Price: Lunch menu: 2 courses for £24 or 3 courses for £30; dinner menu: £57 per person; Sunday lunch: £34 for 3 courses
Value: 9/10
Menu: 9/10
Atmosphere: 9/10
Service: 9/10
Food: 9.5/10
Total: 45.5/50
Info: Monachyle Mhor
Address: Balquhidder, Lochearnhead, Perthshire, FK19 8PQ
Tel: 01877 384622
