Having recently visited Monachyle Mhor for an outstanding lunch, I have been desperate to return ever since. Having said that, I want to keep it as a special treat as I can’t demolish a decadent three courses every time I eat out, not with this baby weight that needs shifting in any case. I therefore decided to try one of the other outlets in the Mhor empire – this time Mhor 84, the motel at the head of the Balquhidder glen.
The word ‘motel’ conjures up images in my head of low-rise, wooden-fronted, neon-signed establishments in deep America surrounded by Cadillacs and vending machines and for some reason, at least in the movies I’ve seen, something dark is always about to happen. Mhor 84 couldn’t be further from this image and instead of taking me to a slightly seedy hotel, I was transported to an upper class ski resort. The stripped wood, stone walls, social tables, games room and overall warmth seemed familiar and lovely.
The motel is very used to their clientele being fans of the outdoors as this is a popular haunt for cyclists and walkers and so casting off winter garments to expose rosy cheeks is as common a sight here as it is in the Alps.
This is a relaxed, open all day kind of place and so the menu caters for all occasions whether it be warming one’s cockles with coffee and cake or having a more substantial meal. We arrived mid-afternoon for a late lunch, baby and dog in tow and were pleasantly surprised to find the place so busy, the clientele a mixture of families, groups of walkers and trendy couples with laptops.
We decided to order a selection of dishes to see what the place was about and I started with the seafood chowder – one of my favourites. When I think of a chowder, I think rich, thick and creamy and although I enjoyed this version, I would have liked to see some shellfish in addition to the chunks of white fish which were packed into the thin, slightly spicy soup. Buttered sourdough however was the perfect accompaniment.
I also ordered the mountain salad which was a colourful and vibrant dish of varying textures and tastes, all fresh and encouraging guilt-free dining. Unlike Mr Kerry, I am a huge fan of feta and the combination of this with carrot, celeriac remoulade, puy lentils and sunflower seeds amongst other things made a complex and thoroughly enjoyable salad.
As Mr Kerry scoured at my choice, he tucked in to his pulled lamb shoulder. This creation was made up of a conservative bowl of shredded and deliciously spiced meat topped with pomegranate seeds and served with flatbread, tzatziki and pickled red cabbage. The dish was lovely. What really really shocked me however was the price tag; a serving, which would be a modest lunch or light supper cost a whopping £17. I had to re-check the menu when the lamb was served as I was sure I had read it incorrectly. Although fresh and very well cooked, shoulder is not the most expensive cut of meat and as it is slow cooked, is inevitably made in advance. The remainder of the menu was not as steeply priced but this detail made it hard to digest.
To finish, we ordered a couple of the french fancies that had been staring at me for the duration of our lunch. The mere sight of them catapulted me back to my childhood in which Mr Kipling was definitely my friend. These sugary treats looked like the ones I remembered and the crack of the icing felt just as good. The actual sponge was disappointingly chewy but the button of buttercream on the top was delightfully smooth and silky.
Overall, we had a nice lunch at Mhor 84; the service was friendly and smiley despite some confusion as to which of the drinks on the menu were in stock that day; the atmosphere was relaxed and informal and the warm glow emitted could be seen form the outside. If we were to return, we would probably opt for one of the burgers or Mhor classics as I feel we would prefer the heartiness of both the grub and the value.
Info
Price: £5 – £30 for various dishes
Value: 6/10
Menu: 7/10
Atmosphere: 8/10
Service: 7/10
Food: 7/10
Total: 35/50
Info: Mhor 84 Motel
Address: Balquhidder, Lochearnhead, Perthshire, FK19 8NY
Tel: 01877 384 646
