Calendar An icon of a desk calendar. Cancel An icon of a circle with a diagonal line across. Caret An icon of a block arrow pointing to the right. Email An icon of a paper envelope. Facebook An icon of the Facebook "f" mark. Google An icon of the Google "G" mark. Linked In An icon of the Linked In "in" mark. Logout An icon representing logout. Profile An icon that resembles human head and shoulders. Telephone An icon of a traditional telephone receiver. Tick An icon of a tick mark. Is Public An icon of a human eye and eyelashes. Is Not Public An icon of a human eye and eyelashes with a diagonal line through it. Pause Icon A two-lined pause icon for stopping interactions. Quote Mark A opening quote mark. Quote Mark A closing quote mark. Arrow An icon of an arrow. Folder An icon of a paper folder. Breaking An icon of an exclamation mark on a circular background. Camera An icon of a digital camera. Caret An icon of a caret arrow. Clock An icon of a clock face. Close An icon of the an X shape. Close Icon An icon used to represent where to interact to collapse or dismiss a component Comment An icon of a speech bubble. Comments An icon of a speech bubble, denoting user comments. Comments An icon of a speech bubble, denoting user comments. Ellipsis An icon of 3 horizontal dots. Envelope An icon of a paper envelope. Facebook An icon of a facebook f logo. Camera An icon of a digital camera. Home An icon of a house. Instagram An icon of the Instagram logo. LinkedIn An icon of the LinkedIn logo. Magnifying Glass An icon of a magnifying glass. Search Icon A magnifying glass icon that is used to represent the function of searching. Menu An icon of 3 horizontal lines. Hamburger Menu Icon An icon used to represent a collapsed menu. Next An icon of an arrow pointing to the right. Notice An explanation mark centred inside a circle. Previous An icon of an arrow pointing to the left. Rating An icon of a star. Tag An icon of a tag. Twitter An icon of the Twitter logo. Video Camera An icon of a video camera shape. Speech Bubble Icon A icon displaying a speech bubble WhatsApp An icon of the WhatsApp logo. Information An icon of an information logo. Plus A mathematical 'plus' symbol. Duration An icon indicating Time. Success Tick An icon of a green tick. Success Tick Timeout An icon of a greyed out success tick. Loading Spinner An icon of a loading spinner. Facebook Messenger An icon of the facebook messenger app logo. Facebook An icon of a facebook f logo. Facebook Messenger An icon of the Twitter app logo. LinkedIn An icon of the LinkedIn logo. WhatsApp Messenger An icon of the Whatsapp messenger app logo. Email An icon of an mail envelope. Copy link A decentered black square over a white square.

Metro Brasserie at The Apex, Dundee (33/50)

Post Thumbnail

The Apex is a landmark in Dundee, a bright, modern hotel where the clientele happily mixes business and pleasure. I have attended plenty of functions there in the past which all seem to have rapidly descended into tipsy chaos – the kind that involves cheesy dancing and that feeling of dread the following morning when you realise there may well be photographic evidence.

It was only recently however, while I was at a huge awards ceremony, that I actually took note of the food. Seven hundred people were served a meal that was not just hot and on time, but elegant and modern. I was told a new head chef had taken charge so I made a promise to return for dinner when I could concentrate on the food alone (and without the distraction of Mr Ellis’ elaborate disco moves).

The view of City Quay from the large glass wall of the Metro Brasserie is pretty impressive, especially at night, and I actually forgot, just for a little while, that we were in a hotel. My best friend and I had ventured out for dinner on a Monday night and didn’t expect anywhere to be exactly heaving, however the hotel was hosting an event for teenagers in the function room – which certainly livened up the atmosphere, not to mention the conversation in the ladies toilets.

.

Sbro_Apex_Restuarant_Review_Dundee-15.jpg

The menu overall didn’t excite me and the limited wine list we were given did little to whet the whistle but we got stuck in regardless and ordered, starting with a snack of crispy pig cheeks to share. They packed a good crunch and the meat inside was meltingly tender but the accompanying apple sauce was powdery in texture and bland.

My starter was described as “scallop, chicken thigh, baby corn”. That’s it. No further explanation. So I was intrigued to see how it would be prepared and presented – and delighted to discover it came with a sticky soy-type glaze which was a lovely complement to the sweet seafood. The thighs were melt-in-the-mouth but could have benefited from crispier skin and the baby corn was nicely charred around the edges. I have never had this combination before but the components really flattered each other and I would choose it again without hesitation.

Sbro_Apex_Restuarant_Review_Dundee-9.jpg

My friend had decided to start with the salt-baked celeriac salad. The celeriac itself had a real earthy, deep flavour and was most definitely the star of the dish since the accompanying blue cheese and walnuts were meagrely scattered and not really plentiful enough to make an impact.

She followed it with a good old rump steak with traditional accompaniments. The requested medium-rare beef was more medium-to-well-done but it was lean and tender nonetheless. The peppercorn sauce was delightfully spicy and satisfying, meanwhile, and the chips were really pretty good.

Sbro_Apex_Restuarant_Review_Dundee-24.jpg

My sea bass was cooked well but the accompanying soft shell crab – the reason I picked the dish – was essentially a thick piece of batter. I’m sure there was some crab in there somewhere but the slightly stodgy coating had totally overpowered it and the would-be sweet meat had lost all flavour and texture. The bass was served with an aubergine dahl (a little on the dry side) and an absolutely delicious coconut and ginger sauce. Rich and creamy, it made a lovely partner to the fish and meant I really enjoyed my main, despite one or two disappointing aspects.

We finished by sharing a tiramisu. The rich and creamy layers were lovely but the very thin bands of the coffee mixture didn’t create enough of a balance for me and this could have been mistaken for a plain mousse.

Overall our meal was a bit hit and miss. The parts we enjoyed were so good that it felt like the others let the side down in comparison. If we  had been staying at the hotel and had popped downstairs to grab a bite to eat, rather than make a special effort to go out, we would have been pretty pleased with our evening.

Sbro_Apex_Restuarant_Review_Dundee-7.jpg

However, we chose the Metro over a whole range of other eateries in this exciting city and I don’t quite see it as a competitive stand-alone restaurant – yet.

For an establishment that’s running a brasserie and a large function suite you probably have to accept some limitations but hopefully that talented head chef, so skilled at cooking for massive crowds, will continue to shake things up and edge this place closer to the apex of fine dining in Dundee.

 

Info

Price: Starters: £6.00 – £12.00; main courses: £15.00 – £62.50 (for two); desserts:  £6.00 – £14.00 (for two)

Value: 7/10

Menu:  6/10

Atmosphere: 6/10

Service: 7/10

Food: 7/10

Total: 33/50

Info: Metro Brasserie at The Apex

Address: 1 W Victoria Dock Road, Dundee, DD1 3JP

Tel: 01382 202404

Web: www.apexhotels.co.uk/apex-city-quay-hotel-spa/dining