Over the last two decades, Perth’s cultural quarter has had an investment boom.
In fact, last year its upgrade received national recognition.
From the opening of the Concert Hall to the more recent renovation of Perth Theatre, people are coming from further afield to enjoy the city’s evening entertainment.
The much-needed revamping of interlinking vennels and installation of artwork and lightshow projectors has also made the area much more welcoming.
And quickly capitalising on that investment – and in turn adding to the vibrancy – have been the likes of the Premier Inn, Kisa’s restaurant and Brewdog, which have all enjoyed large numbers of visitors since opening in and around Mill Street.
But the fixture which has always been there has stood the test of time.
Staff at Paco’s have been serving up plates from their varied menu since 1990 – and it’s no wonder people have kept coming back.
The venue
Tucked in directly opposite Perth Concert Hall, Paco’s might just escape the eye of tourists who aren’t looking for it.
For anyone who’s lived in the Fair City in the last 30 or so years, though, you’ll be familiar.
Outside, the pandemic-era introduction of Brighton-beach style huts with tables and chairs inside have been a nice addition, which weather-permitting will be well used again this summer.
A deli is also situated outside, open during the summer months and serving up gelato, toasties and fresh sandwiches.
But it’s when you step inside that the décor really catches your eye.
It’s tough to say which antique on the walls is most striking, from vintage sports equipment and old advertising posters to ancient framed newspapers documenting key historic moments – including an original Titanic front page.
Of course, we clocked the early People’s Friend print straight away.
As you walk past the lengthy bar, you get the feel of being in an authentic American diner.
The iconic green-and-white checked tablecloths, slowly rotating ceiling fans and a playlist shuffling from swing to jazz makes that clear.
There’s a real hustle and bustle of waiting staff flying past in distinctive jade green shirts, but the wood and glass screens erected during the pandemic has turned each table into a more private space.
The food
The menu provides more than just the usual suspects.
In fact, there won’t be many people who aren’t catered to there.
Paco’s looks and feels like its classic American-theme, but the menu is broad-ranging, from Italian staples to southwestern classics and a few specialties.
Vegetarians and vegans won’t struggle either.
To start, I opted for the spicy meatballs (£7.45) smothered in a rich tomato sauce.
I know what you’re thinking, Chloe have you ditched the vegetarianism?
Not at all! The meatballs were vegan and utterly delicious.
I can be a bit wary of meat alternatives but these did not disappoint.
The sauce was just the right level of spice and I noted hints of garlic throughout.
I continued on the spice train with my main, choosing the vegetable enchiladas (£15.95).
Served with a side of Mexican rice, well-seasoned refried beans, sour cream and guacamole, I was stuffed by the time my cutlery was put down on the plate.
The enchilada was crispy and topped with melted cheese.
On the first bite, I was met with roasted peppers and onions cooked in a smoky sauce.
It’s hard to go wrong with enchiladas – but Paco’s made sure they were more than just right.
My partner went for the Italian antipasti (£8.75).
A classic, bread with green olives and oil, mozzarella di Bufala and cured meat and chilled roasted peppers and courgette came neatly arranged on a wooden board.
Where it’s often easy to load up on dough and skimp on what it’s served with, it wasn’t the case here.
For his main, the Argentinian-style chicken kebabs (£17.95) were a less familiar order.
The arrival of four skewers of chicken chunks, seasoned in traditional Chimichurri olive oil, and separated by roasted peppers, onion and tomato.
Served with spicy rice and more of the traditional Latin American sauce on the side, there was no room for dessert.
We did manage to squeeze in a cocktail, though.
The menu offers more than 50 cocktails and 16 mocktails for good measure.
He didn’t need to scrutinise that list though – his forefinger found the banana daquiri like a homing missile.
I myself chose a peach Bellini, which came in an old Hollywood-style glass with three blueberries as a garnish.
The verdict
Paco’s has built its reputation on being somewhere for everyone. It’s ideal for large groups but shouldn’t be overlooked by smaller parties too.
You’re welcomed at the door and even going for the dozenth time, it feels like stepping back in time.
It’s open seven days a week, there’s a lunch menu and food is available for takeaway too.
If you find yourself in Perth’s cultural quarter for any of the reasons that it’s flourishing, swing by for a bite.
Information
Address: Paco’s Restaurant, 3-5 Mill Street, Perth, PH1 5HZ
T: 01738 622290
Price: £69.65 for two starters, two mains, two cocktails and a soft drink
Scores:
Food: 4/5
Service: 4/5
Surrounding: 5/5
You can read more of The Courier’s restaurant reviews here.
