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The Dormy at Gleneagles Hotel is the best of casual luxury

Katy Gordon gives her thoughts on a recent meal at The Dormy restaurant at Gleneagles Hotel's clubhouse.

The Dormy at Gleneagles Hotel
What did restaurant reviewer Katy Gordon think of her visit to The Dormy at Gleneagles Hotel?

Growing up in Auchterarder, the Gleneagles Hotel was always part of the landscape.

Most of the town’s teenagers (including me a long time ago) worked there are one point or another. But since moving back to the area I hadn’t paid a visit to my “local”.

So I called my sister-in-law to see if she fancied accompanying me for dinner.

This is no easy thing for her. Her coeliac disease means she needs to be extra careful about what – and where – she eats.

When I phoned to book a table, the person on the other end of the line was very helpful confirming that many of the dishes on their menu can be made gluten-free.

The kitchen also has a separate prep area so there’s very little chance of cross-contamination. We were off to a good start!

What is it like at The Dormy at Gleneagles Hotel?

The restaurant is part of the clubhouse at the hotel and is on the drive from the main road. It’s the first thing you see after you pass the iconic entryway.

Inside the building is home to the pro shop, golf changing rooms, a bar and the restaurant, all of which are designed using wood and dark leather and fabric upholstery.

During the day you can sit and enjoy the views of the King’s and Queen’s golf courses out of the panoramic windows (which also flood the place with sunshine) as you eat and drink.

The open kitchen at The Dormy at Gleneagles Hotel
The open kitchen at The Dormy at Gleneagles Hotel.

At night the building is a beacon of light surrounded by darkness. The lights inside are dimmed giving a bit of privacy in what was a very busy restaurant.

But what you notice most as you walk into the restaurant isn’t what you see – it’s what you smell.

The Dormy has a tandoor and a stone pizza oven and the aroma greets you and adds to the inviting atmosphere.

The restaurant was very busy and there was a buzz about the place – and the open kitchen made the room seem both cosy and spacious.

Food at The Dormy was ‘perfectly cooked’

One of the most unique parts of The Dormy is its tandoor and Indian cuisine offering.

It was not something that we expected when we first decided to go there, but it’s great to get something that you can’t get in many high-end eateries.

Our waitress went through the menu and pointed out what could be made gluten-free, or could have items substituted, and it was practically the entire thing.

They even had gluten-free pizza bases!

It really felt like all of the staff were well-versed on allergies and the dishes and went above and beyond to make sure that both of us were well taken care of.

Black pepper chicken tikka with dips and cheese
The black pepper chicken tikka at The Dormy, Gleneagles.

My sister-in-law chose the black pepper chicken tikka, with rice instead of naan, which cannot be made gluten-free (£25).

It was beautifully presented, with small dishes of different dips and fresh cucumbers and onions, as well as a half of a lime to squeeze over the chicken.

It was perfectly cooked, with enormous depth of flavour, but she did wonder if having a naan instead would have made the dish less substantial as a main meal.

For my main I had the beef burger (£24). When it arrived I was a bit surprised that they’d served it with the bun top off, but it did mean I could get a good look at the actual burger (well, burgers).

A beef burger from The Dormy at Gleneagles Hotel
Katy enjoyed her beef burger at The Dormy.

There were two meat patties with cheese and lots of fresh lettuce and onion, and plenty of Arran tomato relish and mustard mayo (not that it needed them, as the burgers were so moist and juicy).

It also came with a whole picked gherkin, that was lovely and sweet, and crispy French fries that were perfectly cooked.

Did saffron ice cream hit the spot on our review of The Dormy, Gleneagles?

As soon as I saw it on the menu I knew that I had to have the gulab jamun (£11) as my dessert.

A popular sweet treat in the Indian subcontinent, it is deep-fried dough balls. These are soaked in a sweet syrup (the Dormy added cardamom to theirs).

They were served with saffron ice cream.

Between the sweetness of the syrup and the creaminess of the ice cream, it was everything I love about gulab jamun and more.

I only wish I’d ordered two portions, because I could have eaten so many more!

One of the meals
Gulab jamun was moreish and delicious on Katy’s restaurant review of The Dormy.

My sister-in-law had the Madagascan vanilla creme brulee (£11), sans shortbread.

Instead of it coming in a deep ramekin, it was a shallow but wide dish. This gave a better balance of creamy custard and sweet sugared top.

She declared she would come back to The Dormy just to have that dish again.

Oh my god, the coffee! This often-overlooked end to a meal was an absolute treat. It was so smooth and had no bitterness at all.

And our waitress even made sure that sister-in-law’s little disc of shortbread was switched. She got a gluten-free alternative.

The verdict

The Dormy has managed to create its own identity, despite being part of the Gleneagles Hotel complex.

The venue melds comfort and casual dining with the absolute best of food and service. Though it does this in a way which makes it inviting and not intimidating.

If you’ve always wanted to give the hotel a go, this is a great way to dip a toe. Without feeling out of your depth or overwhelmed.

Information

A: Gleneagles Hotel, Auchterarder, PH3 1NF

T: 01764 694270

W: www.gleneagles.com

Price: £101.81 for two main courses, two desserts, two coffees and soft drinks (includes a service charge added to bill)

Scores

Food: 4.5/5

Service: 5/5

Surroundings: 4/5

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