While An Dárna may translate to second, there is nothing second best about this Stirling restaurant.
Its Gaelic name is a subtle nod to this being owner Iain Whiteley’s second venture, following the roaring success of nearby cocktail bar Meraki.
With chef Ally Eccles at the helm, the pair set out to offer Stirling’s first tasting menu.
And, since An Dárna’s 2023 opening, rave reviews have stacked up.
Having a restaurant like this on our doorstep in Stirling, without the need to travel to Edinburgh or Glasgow, is a real plus – not to mention it’s reasonably priced as well.
For five courses, which change every five weeks in line with local seasonal ingredients, you’ll only pay £37 per person. There’s also an optional drinks pairing for £27.
And, unusually, each diner gets three options for every course, rather than a strictly set menu. This piqued my interest.
So, one night after work, I ventured to Friars Street to sample the dishes, along with my Courier colleague Alex Watson.
What was our initial impression of An Dárna?
Adorned with glittering fairy lights, An Dárna feels warm and inviting on a dark November night.
The restaurant is modern and stylish, with cosy touches like cushions in each booth.
Though it’s understandably quiet when we arrive midweek for an early dinner booking, we’re soon joined by lots of other diners.
The atmosphere is relaxed, with a nice chatty buzz in the air by the time we’re a few courses in.
The service is outstanding, with friendly staff allowing us all the time we need to choose our courses, and providing expert knowledge about what we’re eating.
Once we order, we are brought fresh bread and burnt butter.
The presentation of the bread, with each roll in its own little sack, is fun and unique, just like the delicious, burnt, slightly sweet butter itself.
Course 1 – Carrot and Lobster
Our first course arrives quickly, and both plates are presented beautifully.
The carrot dish – coffee-roasted rainbow carrot, espresso gel, cardamom crème fraiche and walnut granola – holds plenty of fragrant flavours that enhance the earthy yet sweet carrot.
The nuttiness elevates the coffee, and the granola’s pleasant crunch keeps things interesting.
The smoked lobster carpaccio, served alongside a tikka crumpet, carrot chutney, and a lobster and tikka spice bisque, is Alex’s standout dish of the evening – perhaps even of the year.
Served in an inventive way, with the plate of smoked carpaccio, tikka crumpet and carrot chutney covering a bowl of hot bisque, she is encouraged to try every element separately and then altogether.
The lobster is fragrant and meaty, the crumpet satisfying, the chutney tangy.
The bisque is fishy with a spicy aftertaste – a pleasant kick of heat.
Combined, all of these components taste truly spectacular.
Course 2 – Octopus and Broccoli
Topped with a tuile that reminds us of coral, the plating of the octopus dish with roasted beetroot, orange gel, beef fat crumb and pickled fennel brings the ocean to the dinner table.
The octopus itself is almost sweet, while the rest of the dish delivers a tide of flavours, from zesty orange to notes of anise.
Alex’s choice is the broccoli dish, plated up with pickled mushrooms, hazelnut, polenta, and broccoli and stilton puree.
Anyone concerned about blue cheese overpowering everything else in this dish needn’t worry – the stilton flavour is surprisingly subtle.
The pickled mushrooms add some acidity, and the hazelnut some earthy depth.
Overall, the course is brilliantly balanced and refreshing.
Course 3 – Pork and Tomato
Next up is tomato-braised pork cheek, which arrives with polenta foam, tomato and chorizo jam, and crispy Parma ham.
The meat is so tender that it falls apart and melts on my tongue; a contrast with the delightfully crunchy ham.
Coupled with smokey notes in the jam, tied together with the creamy foam, the dish is incredibly flavourful.
Served looking like a plate of modern art, the tomato course is a vegetarian-friendly triumph.
The barbecued courgette is charred, satisfying and almost meaty, elevated further by the crunch added toasted pumpkin seeds provide.
The whipped ricotta is moreish, and complements the sharp, smoked cherry tomato (the main character) wonderfully.
Course 4 – Coley and Jacob’s Ladder
For course four, I enjoy another seafood dish: firm yet flaky coley.
It pairs well with its crunchy nutty crumb, while the parsnip offers a sweeter flavour, and the squid ink gnocchi is smooth.
The final savoury course of the evening stars a small but perfectly tender piece of beef short rib, also known as Jacob’s Ladder.
The beef fat turnip fondant and barley bulk out the dish, and there is some sublimely crispy kale on top.
However, despite the addition of pickled gherkin and burnt apple ketchup, this dish seems to lack the full-on flavour punch of some of the others on the menu.
Course 5 – Yoghurt and Jaffa Cake
My final selection is yoghurt – otherwise known as mousse, frangipane, cherry gel, caramelised fig and sea salt ice cream.
While the frangipane is on the drier side, the more moist elements of the dish work in its favour.
The ice cream is heavenly, while the cherry brings the almond to life.
Alex opts for the Jaffa Cake. Without spoiling too much, this fun, sweet finale is a dessert course that somehow does what it says on the tin while simultaneously delivering a delightful surprise.
Expect a generous homemade Jaffa Cake and a cold, creamy “cup of tea” like you’ve never experienced before.
Heart, soul and thought has gone into the execution and presentation of this pudding, making it a joyful end to a lovely meal.
What was our verdict on An Dárna?
Considering the quality of ingredients, cooking and presentation, the five-course tasting menu at An Dárna is an absolute steal.
The servers are experts on every dish – particularly impressive as the menu rotates every five weeks.
If they’re smart, foodies all across the central belt will treat themselves to an evening out in Stirling and save some money as they enjoy a meal on a par with many high-end restaurants in Edinburgh and Glasgow.
We’ll definitely be back – perhaps to try the even more affordable £25 five-course lunch menu.
Information
Address: 3 Friars Street, Stirling, FK8 1HA
T: 01786 497180
W: andarnarestaurants.co.uk
Price: £74 for two to try the tasting menu
Scores:
Food: 4.5/5
Service: 5/5
Surrounding: 5/5
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