Is Deans restaurant in Perth still as good under new ownership?

After a brief closure and an exciting refurbishment, Deans restaurant in Perth has reopened under new ownership, and it’s back with a bang.

The beloved dining spot, now owned by Zsolt Balogh of the Atholl Arms Hotel in Dunkeld, reopened on November 14, retaining much of its signature charm while unveiling a fresh new look.

The exterior of Deans restaurant in Perth is a dark blue and there are twinkling fairy lights in the windows - it looks very cosy and festive. — Deans look very cosy and inviting from the outside.

Walking up to Deans on reopening night, the first thing that catches the eye are the twinkling of fairy lights – inviting and festive, yet understated.

Inside, the ambiance is equally enchanting.

Initial impressions

Retro-inspired lampshades, cosy corners, and sumptuous textures create a modern, luxurious feel while keeping the warmth Deans regulars have cherished for years.

Many of the restaurant’s experienced staff remain, including some who have been part of the team for more than 16 years, ensuring a continuity of service that is as welcoming as the new décor.

The interior of Deans is red and plush. — The interior of Deans has had a bit of a revamp and it lush and stylish with a retro vibe.

The Deans family remain at the helm of the kitchen with Jamie Deans, whose culinary expertise has consistently drawn diners back, as head chef.

Starters that shine

The reopening night menu didn’t disappoint.

We were shown to a cosy table for two in the corner and there were already a couple of larger tables waiting for their meals.

My dining companion Morag opted for the warm goat’s cheese and festive salad.

It was a delightful assembly of charred goat’s cheese, honey-roasted fig, red onion jam, shaved hazelnuts, green apple, and a port reduction served on butter puff pastry.

The sparkling interior at the revamped Deans restaurant in Perth. — The revamped interior sparkles with fairy lights and blends cosy retro with a modern edge.

“I was tempted by the Twice Baked Pitchfork Cheddar & Turnip Souffle with Hebridean Haggis and Spey Whisky Cream (neeps never sounded so appetising).

“But goats cheese is one of those things I find difficult to pass up,” Morag says.

“It’s honestly one of the prettiest dishes I’ve ever seen. Just a riot of colour and flowers and tastes. A proper treat for the senses in the middle of winter.

“The butter puff pastry was a lovely variation on the usual toasty base. Much softer and lighter, letting the gorgeous gooey cheese be the star.”

Rachel’s pink prawn and smoked fish starter.

I chose a pink prawn and smoked fish cocktail, one of the evening’s specials.

This twist on the classic prawn cocktail featured a vibrant mango and pomegranate salad, lime gel, and a creamy dressing.

The sweet, zesty salad complemented the smoky depth of the fish perfectly and the overall look of the dish was beautiful.

Generous portions, top notch ingredients and stunning presentation made for two very impressive dishes.

Main course marvels

For my main, I couldn’t resist the pan-fried fillet of sea bream, served with brown shrimp butter, crispy croutons, and a luxurious lobster bisque.

I was surprised again by the size of the portion, but I’m not one to shy away from a large meal – especially when it is as delicious as this.

The lemon-crushed Jersey Royals added a contrast to the creamy bisque, while the tower of sea bream fillets were cooked to flaky perfection with a gorgeously crisp skin.

Rachel's main course of sea bream. — Rachel’s main course of sea bream and brown shrimp.

Morag’s choice, Newtonmore venison, was a standout.

Perfectly pink and tender, the venison was accompanied by goat’s cheese dauphinoise potatoes, cabbage purée, creamy Brussels sprouts with pancetta and chestnuts.

“Autumn on a plate and none of your fancy taster portions here,” she says.

“My farmer dad moans that half the venison you get these days is indistinguishable from beef but this was lovely and gamey.

“The two variations was really interesting too. The loins pale pink and tender, and the slow cooked cut dark and rich and melty.

Morag’s venison main course was full of flavour.

“There was a lot going on on this plate, in terms of taste and texture – maybe too much for some. I don’t think I had two forkfuls that were the same.”

Space for dessert?

Despite feeling quite full, we couldn’t resist exploring the dessert menu.

Morag’s apple crumble was a triumph – a warm mix of tart Perthshire apples, salted granola crumble, and a decadent pairing of orange blossom ice cream and crème anglaise.

It broke her heart that she didn’t have room to finish it.

The thoughtful inclusion of both ice cream and custard felt like a treat, saving diners the dilemma of choosing between them.

I opted for the piña colada panna cotta, a tropical escape on a plate.

Rachel's pina colada panna cotta was a work of art. — Rachel’s pina colada panna cotta was a work of art.

With pineapple, lime gel, saffron, vanilla, Malibu-infused accents, toasted passionfruit marshmallow, and pistachio and lime crumble, the dish was a medley of textures and flavours.

While it leaned toward excess, the creamy panna cotta balanced the vibrant fruity elements beautifully.

The final verdict

From the sparkling décor to the exceptional food, the restaurant has maintained its well-loved character while embracing a fresh, contemporary edge.

And to get two three-course meals of such a fine standard for under £100 is astonishing.

Granted we only had one alcoholic drink, but it was a beautifully smooth Crémant.

I was also impressed that when I asked about gluten free options, they asked me to choose what I’d like and the chef would make it work.

You know you’re in good hands in the kitchen when they say that.

The waitresses were all so delighted and proud of the restaurant’s makeover, saying that they felt like they had new jobs. And it does seem that Deans has been given a real lift in general by the refresh.

The generous portions and thoughtful flavour combinations highlight the skill and care behind each dish and make Deans a standout restaurant in the Tayside area.

Whether you’re a loyal regular or a first-time diner, Deans is a must-visit.

Just make sure you arrive hungry – you won’t want to miss a bite of what this Perth institution has to offer.

Information:

Address: Dean’s Restaurant, 77-79 Kinnoull Street, Perth
Tel: 07388 732732
Web: www.deansperth.co.uk
Price: £91 for one glass of prosecco, two starters, two mains and two desserts