Celebs and tapas bliss at new Fife restaurant The Cellar at 24

When The Cellar at 24 opened its doors in late November, it promised something special – a wine and tapas bar nestled in the charming town of Anstruther.

Owned by Nicola and Sian Linton, who also run the popular Ox and Anchor in the same town, this venture occupies the former premises of the celebrated The Cellar by Billy Boyter.

For foodies like me, and my tapas-loving family, it was an irresistible invitation to try something new.

manzanilla olives, sweet green chili peppers and salted anchovies — The Cellar at 24 offers interesting dishes such as manzanilla olives, sweet green chilli peppers and salted anchovies. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

The Lintons’ concept is a departure from their street food-style Ox and Anchor, leaning into the vibrant and sociable concept of tapas dining.

They’ve brought in a chef from San Sebastián, Spain’s tapas capital, to craft a menu that marries authentic flavours with local and contemporary twists.

Inside The Cellar at 24. — The chic yet welcoming interior. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

It’s an intimate yet relaxed space, with stylish décor that feels simultaneously upscale and welcoming – perfect for a family outing or an elegant dinner with friends.

Family enjoys tapas feast

Our dining crew included my mum, Sheila, and her husband, Graham – both retired award-winning chefs and dedicated lovers of tapas – and my three-year-old daughter, Lily.

From the start, we leaned into the tapas ethos: a table laden with plates to share.

We began with Lily’s current obsession: a big bowl of olives (£3.50).

The bar at The Cellar at 24. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

Her delight in these bursts of briny goodness set the tone for a fun and exploratory meal.

We also ordered her the muhammara, a roasted red pepper pâté with smoked almonds, feta, and toasted bread (£8.50).

While she adored the bread and feta, the pâté was met with some hesitation.

For me, it was a delicious – more of a luscious dip than a pâté, its smoky and nutty flavours made for a simple yet tasty dish.

The Cellar at 24's scallops, black pudding, mushy garden peas and egg, pea shoots. — The Cellar at 24’s scallops, black pudding, mushy garden peas and egg, pea shoots. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

Another early hit was the baked camembert, served with honey, balsamic vinegar, homemade dried tomatoes, and fresh herbs (£8.40).

This dish struck the perfect balance between sweet and savoury.

The tomatoes were a wonderfully sweet contrast to the luxuriously creamy Camembert, and we eagerly scooped it up with chunks of bread.

One dish that we had to order two of was the boquerones tiradito – marinated anchovies, pickled onion and sweet green chilli peppers (£8.50).

Boquerones tiradito, citrus tiradito, pickled red onion, sweet green chili peppers, crispy garlic, chives. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

I’m so glad we did and the taste was exquisite – it woke my palate up with a zing of hot chilli, sharp pickle and soft tiny fish that totally blew my mind.

Dishes that take you on holiday

The grilled octopus (£16.50) was another personal highlight.

Perfectly tender, its smoky, paprika-dusted tentacle transported me to sunny Mediterranean shores – the only place I usually eat the dish.

Grilled octopus tentacle transported me on holiday. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

Paired with the riso potato and a healthy chilli kick, it was a dish I could have eaten twice over.

Equally impressive was the venison tataki (£12).

This delicate dish featured wafer-thin slices of mustard-teriyaki venison, accompanied by pickled onions, capers, green apple, and a spiced carrot purée.

The venison tataki with orange blobs of carrot purree, pink pickled onion and halves of large green capers on the stem. — The venison tataki was perfect in all ways.

The interplay of tangy, sweet, and savoury flavours was superb, and the pop of mustard seeds added an exciting texture.

For seafood fans, the gambas al ajillo (£11.20) – juicy prawns fried with olive oil, garlic, chili, and smoked paprika – was a classic done right.

Pork cheek in red wine jus on a bed of creamy mash surrounded by a green herb oil. — Pork cheek in red wine jus, smoked eel and edamame bean vinaigrette, fresh herb oil. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

The only thing that stopped Graham and I fighting over them was his love of the pork cheek (£16), served in red wine jus with smoked eel and edamame bean vinaigrette and fresh herb oil.

He did find the pork to be a bit tough at first, but on mentioning this to the waiting staff, he was given another version which was perfect.

Textural challenges

While many dishes dazzled, a recurring theme was the lack of textural contrast in some plates.

For example, the burrata (£12.50) with semi-dried tomatoes, pesto, smoked almonds, and pea shoots was indulgently soft and creamy but lacked a crisp element to break it up.

The salmon tartare looks mostly orange with jewel like orange roe on top and blobs of green cilantro mayo and pea shoots. — The salmon tartare with beet and green apple guacamole had extraordinary flavour and quality ingredients but lacked texture.

Similarly, the salmon tartare – beautifully marinated with kimchi, beet and green apple guacamole, trout roe, and cilantro mayo – was a little too delicate once on the plate (£14.90).

Its flavours were stunning, but a crunchy element would have elevated it further.

The ensaladilla, a potato and egg salad with chargrilled langoustine tails, suffered from a similar fate (£11.20).

Three langoustine tails on top of a yellow looking tart. — The langoustine tails in the ensaladilla had a wonderful chargrilled flavour.

While the langoustines were beautifully smoky and sweet, the salad itself became a homogenous mix of soft textures.

In hindsight, I would order croquetas or another crispy dish to round out the meal next time.

A thoughtful finish

Despite being thoroughly full – to be honest the small plates were really on the large side – I struggle to see past a cheesecake.

We shared the Basque burnt cheesecake (£7.80), a rich and creamy indulgence topped with sea salt toffee and caramelised nuts.

It was the perfect balance of sweetness and decadence without being cloying.

The basque burnt cheesecake is creamy and caramel in colour with crisp nutty toffee on top. — Basque burnt cheesecake. Image: Steve Brown/DC Thomson

For Lily, the kitchen whipped up a strawberry ice cream off-menu – a thoughtful touch that delighted her and underscored the restaurant’s family-friendly atmosphere.

A touch of glamour

One of The Cellar at 24’s standout qualities is its ability to balance sophistication with warmth.

While the food and wine selection are undeniably top-tier, the ambiance is relaxed and unpretentious.

Game of Thrones star Clive Russell standing in front of St Andrews Abbey posing for the camera. — Game of Thrones star Clive Russell was in for a meal on the same night.

Adding a bit of celebrity sparkle to the evening, we even spotted actor Clive Russell dining at a nearby table.

Verdict:

The Cellar at 24 is a triumph for Nicola and Sian Linton, offering Anstruther a vibrant new dining destination.

While a few dishes could benefit from more varied textures, the flavours, creativity, and quality of ingredients shine through.

We found the dishes to be a lot larger than is usual at tapas restaurants, and we were overly full up from our recommended three dishes each.

They were also a bit on the expensive side, but rightly so as they were so large, more like main courses than tapas potions.

It might be better to reduce the size and price of the dishes so that customers have space in the tummies and wallets to enjoy a greater range in comfort.