Red light therapy is all the rage.
That’s not surprising, given its star-studded fan base.
Celebrities including Jennifer Aniston, Victoria Beckham, Kate Moss, Kate Hudson and Jessica Alba have all credited the non-invasive treatment with keeping their skin smooth and youthful.
So what exactly is red light therapy?
Essentially, the treatment combines red and near infra-red light, with the two wavelengths working below the skin’s surface to stimulate the natural rejuvenation process.
Boosting collagen and blood circulation, the theory is that skin is left visibly glowing and more healthy looking.
As well as the anti-ageing benefits of collagen production, red light therapy has impressive anti-inflammatory properties, which are brilliant for soothing inflamed skin.
Red light can also help to smooth wrinkles, scars and fine lines, get rid of dark spots, and help to treat eczema and acne. What’s not to like!
A major beauty trend
Beauty fans will no doubt have seen endless posts on social media of people wearing arguably scary looking red light masks.
And yes – you can give yourself a therapy session at home, using a variety of devices, whether masks, wands or panels.
However, for a more intense blast at it, I headed to Luceo Aesthetics in Forfar, where aesthetic nurse practitioner Angie Mackenzie was happy to help.
Angie, who is the clinical director, uses the Dermalux Flex LED light.
“The Dermalux Flex LED light is the most powerful portable LED in the world,” she explains.
“It’s got Tri-Wave, so it’s got blue, red, and near-infrared, which are different wavelengths that go to different depths.
“The blue targets the epidermis (the outermost layer of skin), red targets the dermis (the middle layer of skin, between the epidermis and subcutaneous tissue), and the near-infrared goes deeper into the hypodermis and subcutaneous (the bottom layer of skin).
“I’ll use red and near-infrared on you.”
Why is cleansing and moisturising so vital?
It’s important to deep-cleanse the skin before having a treatment.
Angie does so using a concentrated foam and cleanser from Swedish brand Cliniccare, to do a “double cleanse”.
“Part of the cleanse process is to stimulate blood flow and help lymphatic drainage and help prepare your skin for the LED light,” she explains.
Once my skin is dry, I’m treated to an “instant painless peel”.
This is essentially a very gentle, surface-level enzymatic peel – and it feels lovely. It’s made of fermented grapefruit, so it smells gorgeous.
“It melts away dead surface cells and reveals healthy skin cells underneath, leaving your skin lovely and smooth,” says Angie.
Any residue is wiped away with toner, and then Angie massages in a hydrating essence boasting a form of hyaluronic acid that calms and moisturises the skin.
“You can use the LED light with just dry skin, but there’s some thought that moisture on the skin helps with the absorption of the light,” she explains.
What’s Angie’s verdict on my skin?
So how good – or how bad – is my skin? I have to ask?
Handing me a mirror, Angie points out some pigmentation, caused by sun damage.
I do wear sun screen, but perhaps I’ve not been as strict with as I should’ve been over the years.
Angie says wearing SP30 is an absolute must – even in the most dreich of Scottish winters. The UV rays can still get you!
“Other than a bit of pigmentation, your skin’s in quite good condition,” she tells me.
“I don’t notice many open pores, so whatever skin care regime you do, it’s obviously helping.”
Cleanse, wear SPF30, and drink water
That’s reassuring. I don’t spend a lot on skin products (I sometimes even go for Aldi, or the cheaper L’Oreal and Olay products), but I am religious about daily cleansing and moisturising.
I drink loads of water and always take makeup off before bed.
“Sleeping with makeup on is the biggest sin!” agrees Angie.
“And I’d always advise double cleansing in the evening. Just cleanse, and then cleanse again.”
How does it feel being under the red light?
When it’s time to go under the Dermalux light, I feel like I’m signing up for a part in a sci-fi movie.
I lie on a bed while Angie positions a special panel emitting different wavelengths of LED light over my face.
I’m wearing protective goggles, and keep my eyes shut, but the light is so bright I can still see it. It’s an odd sensation!
I feel a soothing warmth as I lie there – there’s no pain or discomfort. It’s a wee bit like sunbathing.
I lie under the light for half an hour, allowing myself to drift away, as relaxing music washes over me.
Have I got my glow on?
When my time is up, I feel rejuvenated, and yes, my skin does exhibit a healthy glow.
Angie explains there’s no downtime, so I can immediately crack on with my day – but only after she’s popped on some SPF 30.
So what can I expect? “The red light speeds cell renewal, stimulates collagen, improves hydration and circulation, and helps give your skin a good glow,” says Angie.
“The near-infrared works at a deeper level, and that’s going to help with the healing process, calming irritated skin and reducing pigmentation.”
A half hour session is £50, and it’s recommended you have about 12 sessions (the price drops to £40 a session) for best results.
I leave Angie’s clinic feeling fresh as a daisy and headed out for works drinks.
Can you drink alcohol?
It’s recommended you avoid alcohol before and after a red light therapy session because booze dehydrates your skin – and that’s the last thing it needs.
I compromise by sticking to a couple of (small) glasses of prosecco, and drink water like there was no tomorrow.
My face does feel a tad tingly at points throughout the evening, but that’s a normal side effect – a result of light stimulating blood vessels and cells.
Angie, a former ultra runner, has a long-established career with the NHS as an advanced nurse practitioner and prescriber, so you’re in safe, experienced, hands.
She’s got formal qualifications galore in aesthetics.
While she’s governed by The Nursing and Midwifery Council, her clinic is fully regulated by Healthcare Improvement Scotland.
And she’s also a member of the Scottish Medical Aesthetics Safety Group – a network of healthcare professionals working together to protect the public from unsafe, unregulated practices.
Whether you’re inspired by celebrity fans or just fancy a pick-me-up, incorporating red light therapy into your beauty routine is a safe, pain-free way to help you on the road to getting glowing, and (hopefully), more youthful looking skin.
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