Findlater Castle, Cullen, Moray
The ruins of Findlater Castle are only a short walk from the Moray coastal village of Cullen but there’s plenty of dramatic scenery and history along the way.
The castle’s position, on a rocky promontory across a deep gap from the mainland cliffs, is spectacular. There is a path which allows access for a closer look, but it is steep, narrow and eroded and great care must be taken. The ruins are also in a dangerous state.
The castle dates from the 15th Century, although it is believed to have been the site of a stronghold for a couple of hundred years before that. During the tumultuous times of Mary Queen of Scots, it changed hands between the feuding Ogilvy and Gordon families.
But while the sight of the castle is the jewel in the crown, the walk east round the coastline to reach it is also one to treasure.
Strolling downhill to the harbour from the little car park in the centre of Cullen, the brilliant blues of sea and sky stretching for miles were interrupted only by the sweeping, curling white of the waves being driven ashore at a rate of knots by the brisk wind.
The route is well signed as part of the Moray Coastal Trail. The first curiosity encountered is the pet cemetery, a spread of tributes to much-loved pets amongst a carpet of pebbles to the right. Beyond this, the track dissolves into a path, becoming rockier as it moves along.
There are a few exciting rises as it bends round the headland, with little bays and pronounced rocky architecture beneath your feet, the water spraying up around them. From end on, one looked remarkably like a scaled-down version of Skye’s infamous Inaccessible Pinnacle, arching out of the sea like a huge prehistoric beast.
Next came a series of giant boulder steps with an impressive symmetrical cairn at the foot in tribute to the man who built this section of path single-handedly in the 1980s.
A solid cliff line is home to hundreds of nesting seabirds is passed, before an information sign which tells the story of the Cullen caveman, a First World War French naval deserter who became a local celebrity when he set up home on the beach. He lived there for some 13 years.
Around the next corner, the path wends its way to the glorious sands of Sunnyside Bay before turning uphill on an eroded section leading to the top of the cliffs. It’s fairly level walking from here to the castle viewpoint.
The path was closed just beyond this point and I made a careful descent to the ruins from the area of the viewpoint. Had it been wet and the ground looser, I may have given it a miss.
In the interest of providing a more circular route, I returned along the coast until crossing a small wooden bridge then leaving the main path to take a fainter one up a grassy gully. This brought me to the top of the cliffs and a gate with a signpost pointing the way along the edge of a field and on to a track.
I passed a ruined cottage then continued along farm tracks before coming out on the main road through Cullen for the short walk back to the car. You could also cut off earlier and take a signed track down to the harbour past the caravan park and cemetery.
My personal recommendation, however, would be simply to forget the circular and just retrace your steps along the coastal path, enjoying a repeat of all those wonderful sights and sounds. When it comes to seascapes, you just can never have too much.
ROUTE
1. Turn right out of car park and walk down main street, passing under viaduct to reach harbour and turn right following signs for coastal path.
2. Pass pet cemetery and head round to a wide bay, then follow grassier path along shoreline keeping straight on at signed junction to pass through gate. Route becomes rocky and narrower and there is series of ups and downs until you reach memorial cairn.
3. The path passes an information post about the Cullen caveman then rises and drops down to sands of Sunnyside Bay. Head uphill on eroded path to top of cliffs, then follow east along to viewpoint for Findlater Castle.
4. There is a narrow path leading down to the castle ruins but great care should be exercised – it is steep and muddy.
5. Head back to Sunnyside Bay and once round the next corner, just after crossing a small wooden bridge, leave main path and take fainter one heading left up grassy gully to emerge at gate giving access to field track.
6. Continue past ruined cottage to junction, turn right and follow track as it curves left then round farm buildings to emerge on main road. Turn right and walk down to car park.
INFORMATION
Distance: 9.5km/6miles
Ascent: 226m/740ft
Time: 2.5-4 hours
Grading: Lovely half-day walk suitable for all ages and fitness levels on coastal path, farm tracks and pavements. Couple of steeper sections but short-lived. Great care needed if descending to castle, not advised for young children. Good footwear recommended. Dogs under close control on farmland.
Start/finish: Car park in The Square, Cullen (Grid ref: NJ 512671) with toilets available.
Map: Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Landranger Map 29 (Banff & Huntly); Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer sheet 425.
Tourist Information: VisitScotland Aberdeen iCentre, 23 Union Street, Aberdeen, AB11 5BP (01224 269180).
Public transport: Buses to Cullen from Elgin and Aberdeen (35).
