Gayle attempts a circular walk in Glen Esk – but an impassable bridge raises questions on how to resurrect this long-standing right of way.
It’s a gloriously sunny morning when I set off towards Glen Esk with my dog Toby.
As we drive deeper into the glen, it becomes increasingly remote; increasingly bucolic.
Soon, the Maule Monument, a prominent cone-shaped memorial that crowns the Hill of Rowan, comes into view.
It’s visible for miles around, dominating the heathery hills of the rolling landscape.
I’ve never walked up to it before, but with the sun on my back and spring in the air, today is the day.
My plan is to park in the tiny hamlet of Tarfside, scale the hill, enjoy the panorama, and then complete a five-mile circular route through the glen as described in a walking guide.
Setting off up the Hill of Rowan at a decent pace, I soon become a sweaty mess, stripping off hat, gloves and scarf.
It doesn’t take long to reach the summit, and it’s so windy that I quickly layer up again. The views are absolutely stupendous, down to the River North Esk, the entrance to Glen Mark, and to the distant snow-capped Cairngorms.
The monument was built in 1866 by Fox Maule Ramsay, 11th Earl of Dalhousie and 2nd Baron of Panmure, and in memory of seven members of his family who died.
These included his brother, Lauderdale Maule, MP, who died of cholera during the Crimean War.
Descending through heather and then a grassy track, with ruined dykes and the remains of an old field system, I pass curious stone heaps, thought to be hut circles – circles of stones representing the site of prehistoric huts.
A line of grouse butts leads me into birch woodland and onto a minor road where I branch off to follow a signpost to Dalbrack and Drumgreen.
A delightful stone bridge over the River North Esk, complete with grassy clearing, proves the perfect picnic stop for me and Toby, who delights in a refreshing dip while I admire the cascading water.
Continuing down a road until it ends in a farmyard, the way becomes less obvious, but I follow my (quite old) book to cross the Dalbrack burn and head past the lonely ruins of Drumgreen, with fantastic views of Hill of Rowan across the valley.
At more ruins, I skirt the edge of the moor and pass a series of crumbling settlements before reaching Buskhead Farm and turning down the hill towards a wooden footbridge over the North Esk.
This, dear readers, is where things go awry.
The bridge – which I crossed without drama in 2013 – is now impassable. It’s cordoned off, with an impenetrable metal gate at one side, and a wooden barrier at the other.
Perhaps if my four-legged friend hadn’t been with me I’d have attempted some Spiderman moves to crawl up, over and round the gate, but that would’ve been dangerous.
After marching up and down the river rather dejectedly, I realise there’s no other way across the deep water. Time’s kicking on and I have two options – head all the way back (five miles) meaning it would be dark when I returned to the car, or wade across.
Now I know the latter idea is stupid, irresponsible and dangerous – I could be knocked off my feet, fall over and drown. But after looking for a “safe” spot, and a fallen branch that would act as a walking pole, I go for it. The water is icy cold as I make my way, slowly, across. The branch is ripped out of my hand mid-way, and Toby looks like he’s struggling. But we make it.
Back at the car, drenched and with no spare socks, boots or trousers to change into, I become quite irate. What happened to the bridge? It’s a long-standing right of way, enabling walkers to link up historic routes in the area. What of it now?
Safety concerns
I do some research, discovering it’s been out of action since 2014 due to safety concerns.
I contact countryside campaigner Ken Goddard, formerly on Inveresk Community Council, who tells me volunteers have repeatedly expressed a willingness to repair the bridge, but that this can’t done without the authority of the landowner, Millden Estate.
However, the barriered-off bridge remains impassable and continues to deteriorate.
“The river crossing actually has Royal Assent as it was originally a priest’s or coffin route to enable the dead to be buried,” says Ken.
He regularly has people appearing on his doorstep asking if there’s an alternative crossing. “All seem to be of the opinion that as the bridge is a right of way, it becomes an obligation of the landowner,” he says.
Fellow Inveresk community councillor Judith Gallacher says: “Sadly it’s been a matter of huge frustration for many years that a right of way that is a part of such a variety of walks has been closed by a local estate owner and there is no easy way to reopen it for the enjoyment of the public.”
I get hold of Ian Wilkinson of BH Sporting Ltd, the company that manages the estate.
He claims: “The buck stops with Scottish Water” who own a water pipe under the bridge and that the bridge is “of no use” to Millden Estate.
“It was closed on safety grounds,” he says. “There is a detour although it’s some distance.”
A spokeswoman for Scottish Water tells me: “While we have a water pipe suspended from the bridge, the bridge itself does not belong to Scottish Water. It’s the landowner who’s responsible.”
Outdoor access group ScotWays has been involved in the issue for years.
“The bridge carries a long-standing right of way across the hills from Deeside and southward beyond Glen Esk,” says a spokesman.
“We want to get it repaired or replaced, but so far discussions have failed to create a partnership willing to do the work.”
Sadly it’s been a matter of huge frustration for many years that a right of way that is a part of such a variety of walks has been closed by a local estate owner and there is no easy way to reopen it for the enjoyment of the public.”
Judith Gallacher
Meanwhile, a spokesman for Angus Council says repair of the existing structure is “not feasible”.
“While landowners should not obstruct public rights of way, they are not obliged to provide or maintain structures, such as bridges, to facilitate passage, and we do not have powers to require landowners to replace such structures,” he says.
“While as a council we have no plans to provide a replacement bridge, we would be supportive of any community proposals to do so. However, any proposed arrangements for replacement and ongoing maintenance of the bridge would require the agreement of the landowner.”
It would be fantastic if there could be a resolution. I don’t plan on wading through the river again, and I seriously advise anyone against trying!
