There’s something magical about seeing the Arbroath Cliffs from the water. I’ve always loved them – whether hiking along the top or taking boat trips past their towering red rock faces.
My first memory of them was with my granny, years ago, on a blustery boat ride. I remember shielding her from the sea spray while she laughed, completely unfazed.
That moment stuck with me, and ever since, I’ve wanted to go back – only this time, under my own steam on the water.
I tried kayaking there last year, but the swell forced us to turn back. So, when my friend Lucy Mason, a paddleboarding instructor and owner of Adventure Paddleboarding, called to say conditions were perfect this Saturday, I dropped everything.
We met at Arbroath Cliffs Car Park car park at midday, the tide just coming in. The sun was out, and despite a slight breeze, it felt like summer.
The sea had a gentle bounce to it – just enough to make things interesting but not enough to be dangerous. It was the kind of day I’d been waiting for.
Launching into the adventure
Gearing up, we carried our boards down to the water’s edge, crossing the rocks to a natural little channel, perfect for launching.
One by one, we pushed off, found our balance, and began paddling out through the rocks.
While the more experienced paddlers in our group confidently stood from the get-go, Lucy’s son and I took a more cautious approach – starting on our knees, adjusting to the rhythm of the rolling swell.
The water rose and fell unpredictably, making balance a challenge for the first part of the trip.
From this perspective, the cliffs looked even more incredible. Their deep red stone contrasted beautifully against the bright blue sky, and from below, you could fully appreciate their sheer size.
Walkers on the cliff tops waved down at us as we paddled along, the sunshine making everything feel almost Mediterranean – except, of course, for the icy North Sea beneath us!
Exploring the caves
Our first stop was a large rock, where one of our group members Cameron, a seasoned coasteering expert, hauled his paddleboard onto the stone and launched himself into the sea.
He made it look so effortless that I knew I’d have to give it a go later – but not just yet! I was still nervous about getting too cold too soon.
Instead, we carried on, paddling into the first sea cave. Inside, the water lifted and dropped us in a slow, hypnotic motion, like a natural theme park ride.
We took care not to get too close to the rough cliff walls as they could puncture our boards, in fact one of our group lost a fin to a sharp rock below the surface.
The light filtering in created an eerie glow, and the echoing sound of waves against the rock walls made the space feel otherworldly.
Jumping through the blow hole?
We passed the “Emerald Cave”, so-called because, at the right time, the sunlight transforms the water into a glowing, jewel-toned green.
It was fantastic to see such places just off the Angus coast, and I felt really lucky to be able to see them up close.
We ventured into the most dramatic cave of them all – the one with the blowhole.
When the swell is strong, the sea surges into the cave and shoots up through a hole in the ceiling, erupting like a geyser.
Some brave souls even jump through the blowhole into the water below – not something I was keen to try!
A hidden beach and climbing fun
After exploring the caves, we paddled into a secluded little beach, only accessible from the water.
We pulled our boards onto the land and settled on the warm stones. After kneeling on my board for so long, my legs were grateful for the break!
As we ate lunch, Lucy’s son – an enthusiastic climber – teamed up with Cameron to explore the rocks.
They found a small cave where the waves rushed in and shoved them back out, sending them laughing into the surf.
It looked like so much fun, but the freezing water kept me on the sidelines… for now.
The return journey – standing strong
Determined to stay standing the whole way back, I hopped onto my board, finding my balance in the sheltered bay.
But the real challenge was heading back out into the open water, where the swell was less predictable.
Miraculously, I managed to stay upright, even as the waves lifted and dipped the board beneath me.
My feet – every muscle clenched tight like a monkey gripping a branch – gradually relaxed as I found my rhythm. The more I loosened up, the easier it became.
Leaping into the cold!
We returned to Cameron’s jumping rock, and this time, I was ready. Climbing up, I hesitated for a second before taking the plunge – cold, exhilarating, and absolutely worth it!
Of course, getting my board off the rock again and me back onto it was another challenge.
Everyone else made it look effortless, but I managed to fall off the other side of the board. By now I’m immune to the chilly water so I didn’t mind another cold plunge.
Eventually, I scrambled back up and I was grinning the whole way back to shore.
Though we had to navigate around hidden underwater rocks, we avoided any mishaps, gliding safely into the shallows.
Post-paddleboarding glow
After deflating our boards and drying off, we celebrated the day with ice cream from a nearby Roasty Toasty food truck – never has ice cream tasted so good!
Even hours later, and into the next day, I was still buzzing from the experience.
I’d not only ticked off a long-held dream but also pushed myself further, improving my paddleboarding skills in the most exciting way possible.
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