London has a special place in my heart. It was the first place I travelled to on my own for a holiday.
At the age of 18, with savings from my first pay packets, I headed to London on the overnight bus and stayed in a pretty grotty B&B. I was 18 – who cared?
The memories of that week – the galleries, the theatre, the cafes, the markets, exploring that city – are still fresh.
I loved it so much that I decided to move there – and within the year I was back in Dundee.
London is a playground to me rather than home.
There have been many return visits but never a proper “tourist” visit, taking in all the sights that the bulk of tourists come to experience.
If there was ever a time to do that it was this year and, as it turned out, this autumn was a good time to do it.
Obviously the usual hordes of tourists were not in evidence. There was enough of a buzz but without the massive queues.
Practically every accent I heard was from somewhere in the UK.
London Pass is a good idea
London’s big hitters – the Tower of London, St Paul’s, Westminster Abbey, Shakespeare’s Globe had never featured on any itinerary.
However, adding up the entry fees – the Tower is £29.90, St Paul’s £20, Westminster Abbey £24 and the Globe £17, just for the tour… it was clear this “London as a tourist” business could get pricey.
There’s an easy answer to it by buying a London Pass.
On a busy itinerary, it can save a lot of money on these and suggest a few more that might not have occurred.
The Tower is peak royal history
Do these big hitters live up to the hype though?
For a family of four visiting the Tower and picking up the inevitable souvenirs on the way out you won’t get much change out of £100.
It’s not important to be a history buff. Walking through the gate and strolling within the high walls feels more like being on a movie set.
Wolf Hall fans can have their own theme park moment, even when it comes to the spot where poor Anne Boleyn was beheaded.
The Yeoman tour beats any audio tour for personality and sheer shoutiness.
Our guide was Gary, explained the qualifications needed to stand in front of us, live in the Tower and wear that dandy uniform.
They need to have has at least 22 years in one of the named forces. They need to be a former warrant officer or senior non-commissioned officer, and they need to have been awarded the Long Service and Good Conduct medal.
Peak royal history
There are grisly tales of famous prisoners, traitor’s gate and the ravens. There are cells and chambers to explore.
There’s even a little trip on a slow-moving belt (think airport) to stop people lingering too long in front of the Crown Jewels.
The Tower is peak royal history and takes a good half day to explore properly.
St Paul’s is a surprise too, with grand galleries and an atmospheric crypt to explore.
Here the audio tour is ideal, pointing out why the most innocent-looking panels and doors have rich stories.
London has its hidden delights too. Most people end up in Camden at some point, browsing the markets and enjoying the more bohemian buzz.
There’s a more tranquil way to get there than the Northern Line.
OK, it means taking the Tube to Warwick Avenue but a short walk from there is the tranquil spot of Little Venice.
Narrowboats leave from here to make the leisurely 45-minute trip to Camden Lock passing by mansions, the back of London Zoo and some of London’s industrial past.
On Jason’s Boat Trip (included in the London Pass) the guide brings the waterways and towpaths to life, with marks on the wall that might pass us by sparking images of heavy horses pulling narrowboats in past centuries.
We’re pretty blasé about free entrance to museums and galleries and although there suggested donation boxes at the entrances to many, we can walk into two Tates, National Galleries, the V&A and many more without spending a penny.
The temporary exhibitions come with a ticket price, but the scale of something like Alice: Curiouser and Curiouser, an immersive exhibition into the world of Alice and her adventures, running at the V&A until December 31 this year is a bit of a bargain at £20.
To delve into the exhibition with its VR elements and films could take a full day.
It takes some planning
To experience London like a tourist takes careful planning, but it can be one of the most memorable short breaks you’ll ever take.
The London Pass allows access to more than 80 attractions, as well as other perks such as free audio guides and some gift shop discounts.
Choose London Pass + Travel to add in public transport.
Choose your duration (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7 or 10 days), download to your smartphone and scan for entry at the attractions.
Check the London Pass app for attractions that require pre-booking.
More information and latest process and offers at www.londonpass.com.
