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Carnoustie to Edinburgh isn’t far when Auld Reekie has so much to offer visitors

A packed couple of days in Edinburgh remind writer Brian Stormont just how amazing Scotland's capital is.

Edinburgh, with its incredible architecture and history, is a wonderful city to visit.
Edinburgh, with its incredible architecture and history, is a wonderful city to visit.

I am guilty of not appreciating what is on my doorstep. Take Edinburgh, for example.

It is lauded the world over for its amazing tourist attractions and is a lovely city to wander through.

But living only just over an hour’s journey from our amazing capital, I very rarely visit it and often forget just what Auld Reekie has to offer with its incredible history and vibrant culture.

That changed when I spent two busy days packed full of things to do in Edinburgh.

A relaxing train journey with the carriages filled with late-autumn sun set me up for my capital adventure, where I was staying at the Moxy Hotel in Fountainbridge.

Cocktails and dragons at the Moxy Hotel

The rooms at the Moxy are modern, bright and spacious with a lovely bathroom. The modern feel is highlighted by the number of USB charging points available.

Now, before I go any further, I must highlight a feature that is so simple yet so useful – during the night when you get up to visit the bathroom, a small light comes from a lamp under the bed that lights your way there.

I haven’t come across this in a hotel before and it was a simple and great addition.

table football and arcade games in the games room in the bar at the Moxy Hotel.
Game on! The cool games room in the bar at the Moxy Hotel.

After settling in and enjoying some delicious snacks in the hotel’s very cool bar, we were off to begin exploring Edinburgh.

The first stop was The Real Mary King’s Close where we were treated to a private tour.

people listen to a guide in an alleyway that leads down underneath Edinburgh
A tour round The Real Mary King’s Close is enlightening as well as occasionally frightening.

I had no knowledge of this attraction, which is truly remarkable. Beneath the city’s streets is a perfectly preserved part of Edinburgh from the 17th Century.

Stories of people who lived on the close and the city’s plague doctor are brought to life in a fantastic immersive experience.

two guides, one dressed as the plague doctor, whose costume makes him look he has a large beak
The plague doctor.

As you are expertly guided through centuries of history, it is easy to see why this is one of the top tourist attractions in the city, which enjoyed its most successful summer season in 2024 and has more reviews than Disneyland.

It’s educational, but also a little frightening, and it is somewhere I plan to return to with the family.

the Edinburgh skyline seen from the hotel's rooftop bar.
The view from the Lochrin’s rooftop bar.

After time to freshen up in the room, we were treated to a cocktail-making masterclass in the Moxy Hotel’s award-winning Lochrin Bar.

How to be a glass act…

There are spectacular views over Edinburgh from the rooftop bar and it was a great venue to learn the art of cocktail making.

a staff member looks on as Brian has a go at making some cocktails.
Brian has a go at making some cocktails.

Now, I have never been particularly good at making cocktails at home (ask my wife), but under the expert tutelage of bar manager Calum Gilhooly I did indeed succeed in creating a Sleeping Dragon.

This is one of the bar’s signature cocktails and is named after the legend that Arthur’s Seat is, in fact, a sleeping dragon.

The Sleeping Dragon Brian conjured up at his Edinburgh hotel
The Sleeping Dragon Brian conjured up.

There is a great vibe around the bar, which is styled like a library and has some extremely comfortable soft furnishings.

It is a great place to spend an evening if you are staying at The Moxy.

Dean Banks’ Plaice pop-up

I was looking forward to dinner, which was at MasterChef finalist Dean Banks’ ASKR, which was featuring a kitchen takeover as a pop-up called Plaice.

The idea behind Plaice was to provide high-quality fresh seasonal seafood at an affordable price.

Oysters with chilli and lime
Oysters with chilli and lime were a delight.

I love seafood, so I was in my absolute element.

I have never been a big fan of oysters, but Plaice’s offering converted me.

Served with lime and chilli, the oysters were divine and I would enjoy them like this again.

a hot smoked salmon dish.
The delectable hot smoked salmon dish.

Next up for me was hot smoked salmon and potato salad.

The salmon was beautifully smoked and I gobbled up the flaky pieces of salmon with the tasty potato salad.

This was simple in concept but delivered in flavour.

North Sea coley with Cullen skink was a clever dish as my main.

A meaty, perfectly cooked piece of coley was presented on a creamy, moreish Cullen skink sauce and some herb oil.

North Sea coley with Cullen skin dish.
The inventive North Sea coley with Cullen skink dish.

Plaice was fantastic and it is great to see that the offering is now a permanent addition to the Dean Banks Group with Plaice inspiring a second location for Dulse in Leith.

It is a great addition to the scene and I would recommend trying it out.

As you can imagine, I slept very well and was up bright and early to enjoy my buffet breakfast before we were off on our travels once again.

Edinburgh institution Valvona & Crolla

shelves and glass counters at Valvona & Crolla's famous Edinburgh deli.
Valvona & Crolla’s famous deli.

This time we headed to a wine-tasting masterclass and lunch at the world-famous delicatessen Valvona & Crolla.

The shop’s wine expert guided us through four of the premises’ delicious offerings – Prosecco Frizzante NV Valvona & Crolla, Bellone 2023 Casale del Giglio, Montecarlo Rossi 2020 Fattoria del Teso and Cesanese 2020 Casale del Giglio.

an Antipasto platter at Valvona & Crolla.
Antipasto at Valvona & Crolla.

These wines hit the mark and were followed by a delightful lunch of sharing platters of antipasto, caprese and arancini.

A traditional Italian feast started in fine style with the platters before I enjoyed my main event of fritto misto.

a serving of Fritto misto with dip
Fritto misto was delicious.

This combined deep-fried squid, cod and courgette served with rocket and tartar.

It was an absolute delight, and the visit to Valvona & Crolla was a definite highlight for me on my trip.

The dining area at Valvona & Crolla.

Our packed schedule then had us heading off to the city centre where we took in Johnnie Walker Princes Street.

I had been fortunate enough to visit it before but enjoyed the fantastic experience all over again.

Journey of Flavour

Prior to beginning the tour, you are asked to answer simple questions on your flavour preferences, which then influence which coloured wristband you wear for the tour.

This concept is fantastic and it ensures that the drinks you sample are tailored to your personal palate.

the exterior of the grand Edinburgh building that houses Johnnie Walker Princes Street.
Johnnie Walker Princes Street.

The journey explains the “four corners of Scotland” and the regional flavour variations that are crucial to how Johnnie Walker whisky is blended.

Led by an expert guide, the tour brought to life the remarkable tale of Johnnie Walker.

He was a farmer’s son who opened a grocer’s shop in Kilmarnock in 1820 and went on to create the world’s most popular whisky by blending the single malts that he sold in his shop.

People drinking around an illuminated table as they take part in Journey of Flavour
Journey of Flavour can light up your day.

I don’t wish to give too much away, but it features remarkable storytelling, amazing light and graphics shows, interactive displays, and, of course, the opportunity to sample the world-famous blended malt in cocktails.

I sampled three whisky drinks that matched my flavour profile – a highball and an old fashioned – and I got the opportunity to try their seasonal blend.

The Journey of Flavour was a fantastic way to end my Edinburgh journey.

It remains a great city with so much to offer and I won’t leave it so long before returning.


Brian’s Edinburgh factfile:

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