Cast your mind back to June 2021. Coronavirus is rife and Scotland is in lockdown.
The first few pubs and cafes are tentatively opening outdoor seating areas after weeks of being shuttered. And hospitality leaders are issuing grave warnings about the future of their industry.
It was in this strange world that Rich Burniston and Niki Graham collected the keys to the Smiddy Haugh Inn in Aberuthven.
It had been a long-time dream to own and run their own hotel.
But this was not the beginning that any landlord would have chosen.
“I do remember that first day, thinking ‘what have we done?’,” laughs Niki.
“I think we must have been a bit mad. But luckily we like a challenge too.”
Fast forward to today, and Rich and Niki have plenty to celebrate as they mark their third anniversary at the helm of the historic Perthshire pub.
The business is thriving, with five stars on TripAdvisor and a near-perfect rating on Booking.com.
Its beer garden and dog-friendly status have made it a firm favourite with locals and their four-legged friends.
And now the couple have taken the wraps off one of the biggest transformations in the Smiddy Haugh’s 300-year history.
Smiddy Haugh transformation has ‘wow’ factor
A small snug and another unused space on the ground floor have been converted into a chic new restaurant area.
It means the Smiddy Haugh can comfortably seat about 45 people – three times as many diners as before.
And now the team are planning to build on their growing reputation for affordable pub classics made with the finest local ingredients.
Working within the confines of such an old building meant nothing about the job was easy.
But Niki says the results have been worth it.
“It’s been really well received,” she says. “People have been saying ‘wow, what a change’ whenever they see it.”
Food in focus at Smiddy Haugh
Niki and Rich met when they were working at the Ubiquitous Chip in Glasgow.
Their boss, the late Ronnie Clydesdale, has been described as “the man who gave Scottish food a good name” – a firm believer in the importance of provenance, long before it became a foodie buzzword.
And Rich says he and Niki have never forgotten those early lessons.
Here, the meat is from Simon Howie, the eggs are from Gloagburn, and everything is sourced with the greatest care.
“When we took over here, we weren’t sure what way the business would go,” he says.
“There was the pub side, the rooms upstairs and the food.
“But the food is what’s really taken off, and this new area gives us a place to really develop that.”
Current custodians writing new chapter
The hotel takes its name from the smiddy that once stood there. And older locals still refer to Aberuthven as Smiddy Haugh.
It’s said to be one of the few buildings in the village that survived the Jacobite burning of Strathearn in 1716.
Rich says he and Niki are grateful to the villagers who have taken them to their hearts, and to the many visitors who have ventured to Aberuthven, Auchterarder’s smaller and lesser-known neighbour.
And he says the current team are proud to be writing the latest chapter in the inn’s history.
“It’s a beautiful old building, and we’re really pleased with the new space,” he says.
“But we’re just its custodians and we know how lucky we are.”
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