It may be hard to swallow this but haggis really is British.
I watched, bemused but sympathetic, as the politics of produce caused arguments in recent days and Scottish consumers found it hard to stomach seeing a Union Flag on food produced in Scotland.
First, it was “the Great British Haggis” marketed in red, white and blue by a Fife company. Instead of quietly filling a groaning trencher, as is its wont, our national dish caused people to choke wi’ perfect scunner at the suggestion it might come from a larger isle.
Next, it was berries. Tesco issued an explanation about UK-wide packaging for Scottish strawberries and Sainsbury’s had to follow suit thanks to a British flag appearing on some Perthshire blueberries. It was all a bit unsavoury.
As someone who considers himself Scottish first and British second, I admit each case caused me to breathe in sharply through my teeth. Scottish berries (and especially Perthshire ones) are, in my opinion, incomparably wonderful and the idea of haggis being British had me checking it wasn’t an article from The Onion.
But here’s the thing: that British flag is accurate. It is a matter of simple geography that Scotland is part of Britain, which is, in turn, part of the legal entity known as the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, which is itself part of the British Isles. These facts are undeniable, whatever the political and social hopes of many Scots.
More problematic was the outrage that a simple flag could cause. I wouldn’t fly the Union Flag, because I feel it has colonialist connotations but for perhaps millions of people it’s part of their identity and that should be respected. To be offended by its appearance on food is, frankly, pointless.
Whether it’s a good marketing move is another matter. I’d sooner buy something with a Saltire on it but I suppose the companies involved can do what they like, especially if, as reported, the larger English market has a different preference.
But I hope we can all agree on one thing: British or Scottish, you can’t beat a big plate of mashed-up lungs – tasty.