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Past Times

How 10,000 pints would flow from Three Barrels at beloved Dundee pub

Jeff Stewart left life on the high seas behind to turn the Strathmartine Road watering hole into one of Dundee's most famous pubs.
Graeme Strachan
Jeff Stewart serving on a busy day at Dundee pub The Three Barrels
Jeff serving a busy pub in January 1980. Image: DC Thomson.

The Three Barrels in the Hilltown became Dundee’s busiest scheme pub with 10,000 pints and 5,000 nips poured every week in the 1970s.

These were the days when a pint of Tartan Special cost 32p and 200 meals were served every day from pie, chips and beans to stroganoff and goulash.

Hill-Cabs would drive you home afterwards.

Such was its popularity at the time that advertisements simply depicted a drawing of three barrels with the slogan: “Need we say more?”

Jeff Stewart took over Three Barrels in 1967

There has been a public house at 45 Strathmartine Road since the late 1860s.

Many people will recall the Three Barrels during the period Jeff Stewart was landlord.

He left Harris Academy and got a job in a lemonade factory, taking the tops off empty bottles, before serving his apprenticeship as an oil tanker navigator.

He gave up the sea after failing an eye test.

Despite having no family background in the licensed trade, he gained experience in several pubs including the Occidental where he met his wife, Geraldine.

Customers look on as Jeff pours a drink behind the bar at The Three Barrels in Dundee
Jeff behind the bar in 1976. Image: DC Thomson.

Scottish and Newcastle loaned him £9,000 to buy the Hilltown boozer in 1967.

It consisted of a single room.

The first day’s takings did not amount to double figures.

The pub was selling about 600 pints a week.

Things changed when the 23-storey Derby Street multis were built across the road.

The Three Barrels was extended in 1976

Jeff made a success of the Three Barrels.

He transformed it into a pub known for its warmth and friendly atmosphere.

He was one of the first to introduce bar meals in Dundee.

Jeff upgraded and expanded the pub in May 1976.

He bought and demolished tenements at the rear of the premises.

One of the tenants in the houses was Maxi Mudie, who was a regular customer.

Maxi opened the new £50,000 lounge which replaced the tenements.

No expense was spared.

There was period décor including Jacobean furniture and light fittings.

The walls were decorated in heavy oak panelling and “sumptuous” red leather-effect seats formed three large bays on the right-hand side of the lounge.

Jeff behind a crowded bar at The Three Barrels
Standing room only at The Three Barrels in August 1976. Image: DC Thomson.

There was seating for 130 people.

The tables were made from oak.

Two glass chandeliers provided the main lighting.

Supplementary lighting came from wall-mounted period lamps.

A specially made large mirror behind the bar was engraved with three barrels.

Curry was a big favourite with customers

A tartan carpet covered the floor.

Staff increased from four to 12 after the lounge opened.

In the kitchen was a six-burner cooker, two microwave ovens and two deep fat fryers.

Meals were served at lunchtime and in the evening.

people sitting in the pub's dining area
How the dining area looked in 1976. Image: DC Thomson.

An Evening Telegraph advertising feature said the menu was “one of the most comprehensive ever to have been introduced in a pub in the area”.

“Even before the opening of the lounge, the old building was always packed to the door with people in for a lunchtime snack or meal and a drink.

“Judging by the success of the bar lunches, which, incidentally, are all home cooked, the evening meals should be an equal success.

“Both meals and light snacks are served with prices ranging from 15p-£1

“One of the most popular meals is curry.

“Stroganoff and goulash beautifully served with vegetables and potatoes are enough to change the habits of any man.

“In fact, some people’s habits have been changed slightly to the more exotic already with the introduction of such specialities as prawn cocktail.”

All meals were “reasonably priced”.

A steak with potatoes and vegetables cost 60p.

Three Barrels was popular with everyone

The Three Barrels was a popular pub.

As well as a dominoes team, there was also a golf team and two football teams.

Every year the golf team would go to Majorca for a golfing holiday.

There was even a deep sea fishing club.

The pub also had an annual jaunt to the Jubilee Arms at Dykehead.

Among the regular customers were people from all different walks of life.

Staff members Wilma Gall, Sheila Stanton and Hazel Forbes pose for a picture behind the bar at The Three Barrels
Staff members Wilma Gall, Sheila Stanton and Hazel Forbes. Image: DC Thomson.

“We have a tremendous cross section of people coming in regularly,” said Jeff.

“We have everyone from businessmen to building workers drinking and eating elbow to elbow every day of the week and they mix very well.

“It’s a pub where a labourer wouldn’t feel out of place asking for a beef stroganoff and a director wouldn’t feel out of place asking for a pie and beans.”

The pub grub was a huge draw.

An average of 200 meals a day were being served by July 1977.

a smiling Jeff Stewart behind the bar in February 1978
Jeff behind the bar in February 1978. Image: DC Thomson.

The menu ranged from pie, beans and chips to stovies, steaks, scampi and salads.

Staff levels increased to 23 with 10,000 pints and 5,000 nips sold every week.

It became known as the busiest bar in Scotland.

The Three Barrels saw further expansion

Business was booming.

A games room was built and the public bar was extended in July 1978.

Two dart boards with electronic scoreboards were added.

There were 10 tables for dominoes.

A patio opened where you could enjoy a drink in good weather.

There was parking for 40 cars.

a man carries a beer keg to stack it beside some others as Sunday drinkers enjoying the sunshine on the patio.
Sunday drinkers enjoying the sunshine on the patio. Image: DC Thomson.

Jeff moved back to serving the beer which gave the pub its name.

Pints of 60, 70 and 80 Shilling were on draught.

They flowed through traditional taps which were over 100 years old.

Everything was rosy in the garden until disaster struck in April 1979.

A carelessly discarded cigarette caused the fire.

The bar and small lounge at the front were destroyed.

Jeff surveys the damage behind the bar after a fire gutted the Three Barrels
Jeff after the fire gutted the pub. Image: DC Thomson.

The lounge and restaurant at the back were severely damaged.

Stock worth £10,000 went up in smoke.

It was a sickening blow after the renovation work in July 1978.

The damage was estimated at £200,000.

Jeff set his sights on getting part of the pub opened within a few weeks.

The lounge bar was open after 17 days.

Getting pub back was a minor miracle

They were queuing to get in.

Jeff employed local builder Graham Leith to do the work.

Graham and his team worked day and night to restore the rest of the pub.

Ten of the 11 roof joists were replaced with the aid of a crane.

The bar was virtually rebuilt with new walls, new ceilings and new foundations.

They completed the work ahead of schedule.

Work taking place on the roof in 1979. Image: DC Thomson.

Jeff took the opportunity to redecorate and make a few other changes.

The optics were increased from 30 to 44.

An electronic beer-dispensing system could pour 13,000 pints a week.

Jeff compiled a photo album recording every moment of the blaze and every stage of the restoration work, which he would frequently hand round to customers.

Jeff and Geraldine hung their towels over the beer tap in August 1986.

He sold up to Scottish and Newcastle Brewers for £500,000.

Not bad for a pub he bought for £9,000.

Back in business in May 1979. Image: DC Thomson.

Jeff and Geraldine went on to further success with other premises including the Occidental, the Ship Inn and the Hotel Broughty Ferry before retiring in 2018.

The Three Barrels was renamed The Barrels and still stands today.

Dundee Pubs author Brian King said: “Despite not being born into it, Jeff Stewart helped to transform the pub trade in Dundee and turned the Three Barrels as it was then into one of the city’s most successful pubs and recognisable brands.”

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